The Swan

As a place where classy, contemporary design collides joyfully with a half-timbered country pub, the Swan is testament to what can emerge when you have what estate agents call ’vision’. By preserving the 16th-century original and adding contemporary amenities in the form of a low-slung, modern steel, wood and glass bar-restaurant overlooking a stunner-for-summer terrace, Mark and Sophie Dorber (who also run the Anchor in Walberswick), have created a new breed of country dining pub – and a godsend for tourists exploring Constable country.

Slickly turned-out modern British food defines the menu, with equal emphasis laid on freshness and revitalised classicism. This is simple, reliable cooking that can range from heritage tomato panzanella to a rare-breed burger with Keen’s Cheddar, bacon and truffle mayonnaise. Our visit kicked off with orange- and gin-cured sea trout jumbled with strips of pickled fennel and cucumber, then two delicious roundels of cumin-infused pressed shoulder of lamb served atop giant couscous with mint yoghurt, and plump fishcakes with buttered new potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and sorrel crème fraîche. 

For dessert, an orange, almond and polenta cake, and a burnt Basque cheesecake with virgin olive oil and Malden sea salt, both made a brilliant final flourish. Like the food, service strikes a great balance, while drinkers have craft beers (including Dorber’s own Harvest Ale) and a wide-ranging wine list that’s pitched just right.