The Plough

Martin and Jayne Lee have been at the helm of this white-fronted Tudor pub in the north Bedfordshire Wolds for more than two decades, and the place still wears its age proudly, with winter fires and low beamed ceilings inside, and garden tables within sight of the river. Meanwhile, 'highly trained skilful staff’ go about their business with admirable good humour. Menus are agriculturally coded as 'seam' and 'furrow', and proceedings begin with sourdough made from the kitchen's own cultivated yeast, accompanied by cultured butter and a herby pesto. Dayboat fish and thoroughbred meats are given the Josper grill treatment, as in hake fillet with buttered spinach, heritage potatoes and herb butter or loin of Blythburgh pork with braised white cabbage, pommes Anna and apple confit; otherwise, there might be overnight-cooked ox cheek with champ. Desserts tend to the seasonal farmhouse way of thinking, so expect anything from caramelised Bramley apple and blackberry tart to gooseberry soufflé with toasted oat ice cream. Wines from Noel Young of Cambridge add lustre to the occasion, with glasses and carafes allowing for intrepid experimentation.