The Old Eyre Arms

Named in honour of its original owners, this picture-perfect country pub is now in the hands of Alistair Myres (the man behind Rafters restaurant across the border in Sheffield). He sees his new acquisition as a ‘trip down memory lane’ and a chance to celebrate the virtues of the traditional country local. A central horseshoe bar and tap room nods to the history of the place and is where the drinkers congregate to chat, drink pints of local ale, and play dominoes or cards. For a menu of well-tried pub classics, head to the main dining areas.

A starter of confit duck terrine with pickled plums from the garden resembled a coarse rillette and was perfectly seasoned. For main course, we missed out on the best-selling beef-cheek suet pudding, but our choices both hit the mark: calf’s liver cooked pink as requested and served with streaky bacon, buttered mash and onion gravy, while pan-fried plaice fillets came herbed potatoes, broccoli and tomato and chive beurre blanc – a textbook example of fresh fish cooked properly.

Desserts could be Arctic roll with roast peaches or fig Bakewell tart with poached pears and Chantilly cream. Service is attentive and engaged without being overbearing, prices are very fair, and a short but well-priced wine list matches the food admirably.