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The Canton Arms

London, Stockwell - Modern European - Pub - ££

Classically pubby Stockwell boozer with a far-reaching, eclectic menu

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Those familiar with the Canton Arms’ siblings (Stoke Newington's Clarence Tavern, Southwark’s Anchor & Hope, Oxford’s Magdalen Arms) will know what to expect. There’s a resolute commitment to classic pubbiness here, so expect plenty of drinkers congregating at the front bar with pints of real ale, while the back area is reserved for diners. The culinary spectrum is as wide-ranging as you can get, with the single-sheet menu offering an ample dose of European and Mediterranean flavours, peppered with kimchi, katsu and the like. The daily specials board, which majors on dishes to share, might feature home-cured charcuterie, a pie for two and seven-hour salt marsh lamb shoulder – built for five to share and a headliner on Sundays, along with rare roast Dexter beef (with roasties, green beans and watercress). On the plate, the pub’s homely aesthetic dovetails with astute technical precision and the season-led food is confidently handled, pr...

Those familiar with the Canton Arms’ siblings (Stoke Newington's Clarence Tavern, Southwark’s Anchor & Hope, Oxford’s Magdalen Arms) will know what to expect. There’s a resolute commitment to classic pubbiness here, so expect plenty of drinkers congregating at the front bar with pints of real ale, while the back area is reserved for diners. The culinary spectrum is as wide-ranging as you can get, with the single-sheet menu offering an ample dose of European and Mediterranean flavours, peppered with kimchi, katsu and the like.

The daily specials board, which majors on dishes to share, might feature home-cured charcuterie, a pie for two and seven-hour salt marsh lamb shoulder – built for five to share and a headliner on Sundays, along with rare roast Dexter beef (with roasties, green beans and watercress). On the plate, the pub’s homely aesthetic dovetails with astute technical precision and the season-led food is confidently handled, producing rustic hand-cut tagliatelle with heaps of butter, girolles and a fragrant whack of tarragon, as well as a hefty spinach and feta filo pie with ‘gorgeous lemony’ Greek potato salad.

Other noteworthy dishes on our visit ranged from Tamworth pork neck with a high-octane anchoïade to perfectly cooked Cornish skate with fresh slivers of tender Romana courgettes and a smooth, rich vermouth cream. To finish, the umami hit of almost-burnt sugar and crunchy nuts was the making of a generous scoop of hazelnut-brittle gelato. In short, everything is generously proportioned and speaks of a kitchen that knows its stuff. There’s democratic pricing too, which carries through to a drinks list offering plenty below the £40 mark.

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VENUE DETAILS

177 South Lambeth Road
Stockwell
SW8 1XPGB

020 7582 8710

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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