Maison François
St James's, London
Paris comes to Mayfair in the shape of this striking modern brasserie, which, in typical big-city fashion, is open from breakfast to dinner. It’s a smart-casual sort of place, where reasonably spaced tables are set in a light, spacious dining room decorated in neutral tones with an open kitchen at one end and Frank’s, a moodily lit wine bar, in the basement. The atmosphere is buzzy, service is friendly and relaxed and, while the mood is not overly French, the cooking certainly is – a dream line-up of fittingly classic dishes, driven by well-sourced produce and assured execution. The menu divides up comfortably into hors d’oeuvre and charcuterie, salads and vegetables, pasta, fish and meat options, plus well-judged centrepieces for two or three to share, so maybe kick off with oeuf en gelée, moreish Comté gougères or an absolutely spot-on brochette de ris de veau with sauce ravigote. After that, mains may be as uncomplicated as onglet with sauce bordelaise and pommes frites or cod with beurre café de Paris and sauce vierge. Epaule d’agneau de lait with haricots flageolets is enough for three, especially if bolstered by a dish of cabbage with anchoïade, breadcrumbs and chilli. To conclude, tarte aux fraises or Paris-Brest aux noisettes could catch the eye. France, broken down into regions, forms the heart of the lengthy wine list, but with offerings from the rest of Europe and the New World it's a selection that genuinely tries to offer something for everyone. Bottles start at £30.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly
34 Duke Street, St James's SW1Y 6DF
020 3988 5777
