La Terra

It opened in 2021 but La Terra has the feel of a long-established Italian restaurant, with faithful regulars welcomed as friends and cooking rooted in chef Alessandro Scola's family traditions. He and business partner Vito Scaduto (front of house) worked in some of the locality’s more renowned establishments before teaming up for this project – and it runs like a well-oiled machine, from the on-point service to the thrum of the open kitchen at the back. The interior is light and airy, the pale walls and cool grey of the marble-topped tables warmed by vintage wall lights and red padded seating.

Scola's cooking combines traditional Italian recipes and ingredients with contemporary creative flair. A starter of lamb shoulder croquettes with kumquats and jus lacked crunch but was meaty, full-flavoured and satisfying, while exceptionally good burrata (from Puglia) was fittingly paired with sweet pear, bitter chicory and crunchy, buttery pine nuts. Sourcing is impeccable: a pearly piece of Brixham plaice, cooked just-so and served with fregola, salty-garlicky bagna cauda and earthy Jerusalem artichoke purée was a high point of our visit, while a plate of traditional Roman gnocchi was equally delightful – made with semolina, pan-fried until burnished and served with crispy fried guanciale, sprightly wild mushrooms, butternut squash and unctuous pan juices.

To conclude, an Amalfi lemon posset with curd and burnt white chocolate offered a novel spin on a classic recipe. Wash it all down with well-sourced, mostly Italian wines, including a decent selection by the glass.