John Dory Wine
Sandgate, Kent
Laid-back, casual and with a utilitarian vibe you don’t expect in a coastal village on the edge Folkestone, John Dory Wine is one of a crop of exciting new-wave wine bars popping up around the country. It's somewhere for those who want to drink well for not too much money and embrace quality wines slightly outside the norm – there’s a daily changing blackboard listing selections by the glass, while bottles are chosen from shelves lining the room, all sold at retail price plus £10. The place has become so popular that since our last visit a kitchenette has been added at the back, allowing the team to broaden the range of food on offer. Inspired by co-owner Harry Johnson’s time cooking at Parisian restaurants such as L'Ami Jean, Le Baratin, Chez Casimir and L'Assiette, there’s now a regular (and often fully booked) bistro-style Sunday lunch where, among several choices, there could be poached leeks with ravigote sauce, roast chicken and mousse au chocolat. In addition, Wednesday night is pasta night, so expect to find the likes of lamb ragù tagliatelle, bookended by asparagus with tonnato sauce and fennel, and tiramisu. On most other days, everything on the menu is outsourced – but it's impeccable sourcing, extending to frequent appearances from locally made individual chicken or mutton pies, smoked haddock Scotch eggs and sausage rolls. There’s also a selection of high-quality tinned fish from Dorset-based Sea Sisters and cult European producers Pyscis. It's worth keeping an eye on Instagram for details of regular evenings from well-known local (and not so local) restaurants and chefs, as well as the latest food drops. Service, led by wine experts Louisa Walls and Zeren Wilson, is just right – enthusiastic, knowledgeable and friendly.
