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Heron

Lothians, Edinburgh - Modern Scottish - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

In the spirit of its namesake, Heron perches intently on the Water of Leith, peering out towards the cranes and dockyards of Edinburgh’s old port. On brighter days, light floods into the airy, high-ceilinged dining room through vast, wraparound windows. Originally the post-lockdown creation of Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke, the kitchen now sits under the sole authority of the latter, with Gormley installed as chef at Stockbridge’s Skua. Regardless, Heron continues to impress. Canapés are flawless: a delicately fluted nori cup is filled with fruity, tender langoustine, tart plum and pressed cucumber, while a wafer-thin croustade combines rich, herbal gribiche with musky flakes of Arbroath smokie. Moving deeper into the menu, a veal sweetbread coated with a hugely savoury sourdough glaze sits on creamy celeriac purée with sugary bursts of candied walnut, the dish perfectly balancing sweetness and intense, malty umami. Elsewhere, a solitary Hasselback J...

In the spirit of its namesake, Heron perches intently on the Water of Leith, peering out towards the cranes and dockyards of Edinburgh’s old port. On brighter days, light floods into the airy, high-ceilinged dining room through vast, wraparound windows. Originally the post-lockdown creation of Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke, the kitchen now sits under the sole authority of the latter, with Gormley installed as chef at Stockbridge’s Skua. Regardless, Heron continues to impress. Canapés are flawless: a delicately fluted nori cup is filled with fruity, tender langoustine, tart plum and pressed cucumber, while a wafer-thin croustade combines rich, herbal gribiche with musky flakes of Arbroath smokie. Moving deeper into the menu, a veal sweetbread coated with a hugely savoury sourdough glaze sits on creamy celeriac purée with sugary bursts of candied walnut, the dish perfectly balancing sweetness and intense, malty umami. Elsewhere, a solitary Hasselback Jersey Royal is presented in a pool of deliciously rich oyster crème fraîche, with cod roe providing some contrasting salinity. This balancing act continues into the final course, where a chocolate-dipped boule conceals a light, milky mousse and luscious, velvety salted caramel, alongside a subtly spiced chai ice cream. Like everything else on offer here, it is immaculately and precisely presented. Service breaks with the stifling formality of traditional fine dining, pleasingly opting for a warm, cheerful and knowledgeable approach – especially when selecting drinks to match the varied and complex menu.

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VENUE DETAILS

87-91 Henderson Street, Leith
Edinburgh
Lothians
EH6 6EDGB

0131 554 1242

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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