The Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, swallows up Devon towns and rivers, Dorset coves and crab-filled bays. Along it, visitors will avail themselves of the finest seafood in traditional shacks and explore some of the south coast’s most forward-thinking restaurants. Here, Stuart Walton picks out several hotspots from the Guide, as well as a few local spots perfect for a post-beach bite.
Nathan Outlaw opened his guest house in Port Isaac, Cornwall, in the summer. The chef, whose exceptional flagship restaurant appears in our Top 20 list, tells Josh Barrie about expanding his business, cooking breakfast, and getting to know his guests.
Originally conceived as a workers’ canteen for Sir Richard Rogers’ architectural practice next door, The River Café (now in its fourth decade) has gone on to achieve international stardom as a glowing tribute to Italian regional cooking. Diligent sourcing and vigorous rustic flavours are at the heart of Ruth Rogers’ kitchen, with seasonal salads, silky homemade pastas and wood-roasted specialities headlining the daily menus.
Country house hotels have been quietly shaking off their dusty image for years. Then the no-fly period of the pandemic struck and suddenly opinion-shapers were checking into places with glorious gardens, sumptuous interiors and kitchens whose food thrilled. Voluminous floral chintz in dusty dining rooms, prissy formality and palate-deadening food? There’s no space for that in these competitive times. Heritage-respecting style, easy informality laced with luxury, and inspired cooking by talented chefs using kitchen garden ingredients? Yes please.
As balmy weather and spring blossom brightens up green spaces across the country, we’ve started to take note of an emerging trend. More and more restaurants seem to be opening in the middle of secluded kitchen gardens (Ethicurean, Pythouse Kitchen Garden), nurseries and garden centres (Moss & Moor, Paradise Café), even working flower farms (West End Flower Farm).
