Cantina

There is something rather special about this bijou Mexican eatery. The two owners started out as musicians before setting up a series of pop-ups in the city and graduating to their first bricks-and-mortar site in Heaton. Mexican-themed knick-knacks, modern art, plain wooden tables and terracotta-painted walls set the scene for a menu that puts a plant-based spin on the core repertoire. Friendly, well-informed staff guide diners through the menu, which ranges from antojitos (‘small cravings’) to assorted tacos – all prepared with skill, confidence and a feel for fresh flavours.

Totopos (homemade tortilla chips) and zingy palate-cleansing pickles kick off proceedings on a high note, ahead of little dishes ranging from 'elote' grilled corn cobs gently spiced with habanero and shallot butter to an outstanding rendition of tempura cauliflower dressed with chilli, sunflower seeds and fried sage leaves – a perfect balance of flavours, textures and seasoning. Tacos (designed for sharing) are equally imaginative, offering anything from panko-coated fried oyster mushrooms with pickled fennel and chipotle black beans dressed in a vibrant green salsa cruda to a baja taco that replaces fish with beer-battered banana blossoms and morita chilli sauce. 

To conclude, there are just two desserts: a silky-smooth chocolate mousse topped with iodised sea salt crystals and chocolate crumb, and a rice pudding/crème brûlée hybrid given an extra kick with cherry and mezcal. Tempting cocktails are the top shouts on the drinks list.