For most of the nineties, the seaside town’s foodie reputation rested with the Whitstable Oyster Fishery, a beach-side oyster store converted, with minimal attention to peeling paint, into a large dining room where fish straight from the boats was simply cooked and unceremoniously presented. Stephen Harris and Nikki Billington passed through the kitchens before launching (respectively) the internationally renowned Sportsman and that idiosyncratic local institution JoJo’s. As did Chris Williams, who went on to open Williams and Brown Tapas (now Harbour Street Tapas).
In the noughties these go-to-spots drew considerable attention and were an important stimulus to the local economy, as well as instrumental in cementing Whitstable’s reputation as the spiritual home of the DFL (Down From London). Over the years, the clutch of food businesses that followed were more purse friendly than groundbreaking, and while still hugely popular with visitors, there’s long been a feeling that Whitstable’s cool credentials have waned in the face of stiff competition from Margate further along the coast.
Is that about to change? Keller is the first significant restaurant opening in the town in years. In partnership with Dan Smith of the nearby Fordwich Arms, sommelier Elliott Ashton-Konig (ex-Da Terra, London) and chef Ollie Clifford-Cox (Hide and Fox, Hythe) have taken over RuLu’s deli and kitchen, stripped it back and created a warm, smart, compact space.
It opened officially on a night of biblical rain and dashing in early doors, I found just a few tables occupied; by the time I left it was packed. I had worried that the ambiance might be too formal, too reflective of this new teams’ Michelin-starred backgrounds. Not so. Classy but approachable, the style is toned down to a relaxed pitch with a wine bar vibe, emphasised by four back-bar counter stools and a couple of high tops for people who just want a light bite and a glass of wine.
And the menu? The drill is ingredient-led sharing plates of varying size but flexible enough to accommodate those who would rather order a starter and a main course. A refined take on panisse, three Jenga-like sticks run through with finely diced onion to give a hint of crunch and acidity, was a treat, as was the single plump scallop in a vadouvan sauce. Simply inspired were mustardy, umami-laden rarebit croquettes – four pieces each topped with a thick blob of Worcestershire sauce – that Nicole (in from New York) declared would be a big hit with dirty martini lovers across the pond. A muscular Assyrtiko from Santorini proved a great accompaniment, too. (The wine list had me planning to leave the car at home next time.)
But the undisputed star of our meal was a generous pile of plump mussels spilling off a thick slice of toasted bread that effectively mopped up a creamy garlic, white wine, shallot and herb emulsion – good value at £14. Our headline mains, rump of Cornish lamb with merguez sausage, tomato, goat’s curd, and baby gem, was beautifully executed but lent itself less well to sharing. Better perhaps would have been lamb chops (at £12 each). Dessert is kept simple, just two options: a riff on lemon meringue or local strawberries with a cardamom choux bun.
Polished cooking and well-chosen wines at accessible prices are to be loudly applauded, and the service – struggling with the unnecessarily formal use of trays on the first night – will soon find its rhythm. Keller feels promising, a fantastic addition to Whitstable’s restaurant scene.
