Hide and Fox
Hythe, Kent
‘Nothing like it in the area’; ‘was not expecting such an outstanding meal’ – just two glowing verdicts on Allister Barsby and Alice Bussi’s eminently civilised little restaurant tucked away in a pretty Kent village. It is obvious the couple have hit on a format that suits the local area, delivering a venue that is smart but informal, with touches of elegance and formality that belie its neighbourly disposition. The food is not only ‘impressive’, but bang up to date. A passion for brilliant seasonal ingredients (many of them local) underpins the whole operation, while a choice of two menus (five or eight courses) allows Allister Barsby to focus on detail. He brings a style of soft-focused intensity to his dishes, building layers of seductive, discreet richness. In a two-part combo involving Longland Farm duck, part one takes the form of a superb parfait served with an apricot chutney, plus slivers of pickled onion giving a welcome acidic hit, and chamomile granola adding a hint of crunch and texture; part two sees the roast breast (pink, tender) and a faggot of the leg meat enhanced by a hint of sweetness from jammy cherries, beetroot, black garlic and five-spice sauce. Indeed, saucing is a strength, helping to draw the elements of a dish together: a rich, foamy wine sauce, for example, to accompany salt cod with paprika, basil oil and sweet pickled cucumbers. To conclude, expect gentle textures and indulgent richness in a coconut mousse flavoured with mint and yuzu, all topped with strawberry sorbet. Front of house is top-drawer: led by Alice Bussi, it dismantles the formalities and puts people at ease while staying vigilant. And wine? Expect an authoritative list with many interesting producers and a good choice by the glass. The house-infused cocktails are worth considering, too.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Credit card required
The Green, Saltwood, Hythe, Kent CT21 4PS
01303 260915
