The Sportsman
Whitstable, Kent
No. 5
Overlooking the Kent marshes, a short drive along the coast west of Whitstable, this unremarkable roadside pub may seem an unlikely spot for such a famous restaurant. Welcoming, confident and buzzing with atmosphere, the interior hasn't changed a great deal – well-spaced scrubbed tables, bare-boarded floors, a light, airy vibe – and neither has the obsession with provenance. During a long tenure – the Harris brothers have notched up 23 years – Steve Harris has built up an enviable network of first-rate local suppliers. Steve's preoccupation with flavour, not decoration, is as simple as it is rare – fine seasonal ingredients highlighting an appealingly common-sense menu that is neither too predictable nor too outlandish. What shines through the five-course taster (with multiple choices at each stage) is a sense of freshness and clear tastes that bear testament to comparatively straightforward yet intelligent partnerships – from roast beetroot with raspberry and ricotta to cured trout fillet with apple granita and seaweed, first-course choices at a hugely enjoyable mid-September lunch. Fish is, of course, often sensational: slip sole with seaweed butter is a Sportsman classic, but on this occasion it came with a smoked-salt butter that added a sweet-sour heft to the delicate flesh; likewise, a nugget of braised brill (so fresh it hardly had time to forget the sea) was served with crab vinaigrette. But more workaday dishes are not to be scorned. Tender slices of pot-roast pork loin with sage roasting juices and apple sauce, plated with rich, buttery mash and finely sliced green beans, was effectively a take on a classic roast dinner, and showed the kitchen doing impressive things with ordinary materials. To finish, unpasteurised cheese is included among the choice of desserts (at no extra charge); otherwise, there could be a light, airy plum soufflé and plum-ripple ice cream or a delicate blueberry and almond tart with lemon verbena ice cream. Service is pitched just right – relaxed, friendly and knowledgeable. Like the menu, the wine list is sensible, uncluttered and reasonably priced – a predominantly (but not exclusively) European selection that opens at £21.95 for a French Viognier and £22.50 for an organic Italian Merlot.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Wheelchair access, Parking
Faversham Road, Seasalter, Whitstable, Kent CT5 4BP
01227 273370
