The Best Sunday Roasts In Scotland
Published 19 November 2024

To ‘coorie in’ is an old Scots verb meaning to hunker in for protection. Nowadays it evokes a snuggled sense of cosiness – akin to the Scandinavian concept of hygge. For chef-owner Phillip Skinazi it's a clear statement of intent. This is a place to be welcomed, warmed and cossetted after a country ramble, a day of distillery tourism or even a wader-deep quest in the river Earn for elusive wild salmon. Decor picks up on the exposed solidity of the original 18th-century building, with a colour palette and ambience of rural landscape incorporating quirky features (a leopard astronaut portrait), alongside the standard stag's heads, proper fires and friendly informal service.

On the food front, classic culinary foundations are matched with more personalised touches to maximise local, seasonal ingredients. A wild venison tartare is satisfyingly rough-chopped, well-seasoned and paired with cured yolk and bone marrow, while scallops are perfectly caramelised to ensure sweetness against their brisk partnership of blood orange, fennel and chilli. Damsel Bakery sourdough and home-cultured butter effectively mop up any last morsels.

Butchery skills are evident throughout and Sunday roasts are rightly praised – perfectly rare local pork loin with hay-baked artichokes and a popping aubergine chutney achieves depths of flavour that exceed its apparent simplicity. There are plenty of wines available by the glass – with some good advice on less-common list inclusions – and of course, cocktails. After-dinner drinks also feature gems from the nearby Glenturret distillery.

The beefy Hawksmoor steakhouse group picked a peach of a site when they were looking for an Edinburgh outpost – namely, the old National Bank of Scotland, once the tallest building overlooking St Andrew Square. Its current incarnation pays due reference to the past with limestone surfaces, a lofty coffered ceiling, imperious columns, parquet floors, etched windows and reclaimed materials, although nothing can detract from the venue's gastronomic USP.

Visitors come here in their droves for joyously flavoursome cuts of dry-aged native beef sourced from both sides of the border, priced per 100g, chargrilled to order, and served with the now-familiar Hawksmoor sauces and sides – although the bone-marrow skirlie is unique to this branch. Regional ingredients crop up regularly on the menu, from Eyemouth crab on toast or grilled native lobsters with garlic butter to occasional supplies of heather-nourished Hebridean lamb. The sourdough bread is from Edinburgh, and so is the butter, while the famed Ambassador chocolate bar and a wicked sticky toffee sundae top the list of indulgent desserts.

A daytime ‘express’ menu pulls in punters on tighter budgets, while on Sundays a whole rump of 35-day, dry-aged beef is slow-cooked over charcoal then finished in the oven – ‘the quality of the meat is unrivalled,’ notes one fan. Otherwise, the drinks list is everything you would expect from Hawksmoor: craft beers and nifty cocktails plus big-ticket red wines bold enough to match all that fleshy sanguineous protein.

With its altar-like, meat-ageing cabinet and a blackboard listing premium cuts, Porter & Rye reveres the ‘cow as king’ and customers duly pay homage. Inside, it's small with mezzanines maximising the tables, although judicious use of glass and subtle lighting achieves an overall effect that is more cosy than cramped. The informal welcome from easy-going but competent staff further fuels that laid-back feel. Stools for bar and counter dining – plus a grazing menu for those on the hoof – add capacity at busy times.

The menu offers small plates, big plates, cuts and big cuts, plus a token vegetarian option, game and seafood, although everyone is here for the beef – impeccably sourced, lovingly aged and carefully prepared. Carpaccio is moistened with truffled goat's milk and gets a satisfyingly salty hit from shredded pecorino. Delicate veal sweetbreads sit on walnuts and red pepper pesto – an atypical arrangement, although the earthy flavours work together. The full range of standard steaks are supplemented by a market selection of bigger sharing cuts (tomahawk, chateaubriand, porterhouse) priced by weight and age. The cooking is exact, accompaniments include some standout beef-dripping fries, and the ‘select your own weapon’ steak knife is a nice touch.

For some, however, the crowning glory is the traditional Sunday roast with its duo of thick-sliced meat and braised ox cheek complemented by an extensive range of oven-roasted vegetables, a suitably gnarly yorkie and glossy bone-marrow jus. Desserts might include the popular sticky toffee Alaska with its caramelised dome of meringue hiding a ginger-infused ice. Wines come from a short list of popular favourites with a steak-friendly focus. Prices are kind and most are available by the glass, although there are a few ‘opulent’ choices for those wanting to splash out.

As the name suggests, the Loveable Rogue doesn’t take itself too seriously but offers creative and good-value food in an informal setting or, as chef/co-owner Joe Lazzerini puts it, ‘good times and great scran’. Whether opting for the carte, their single-course 'date night' deal for £10, their self-styled ‘epic’ Sunday roast or just some tasty nibbles with drinks, you can always expect local and seasonal sourcing, the odd culinary twist, and an emphasis on flavour and fun. Delivering quality and creativity across the board is a challenge embraced and delivered from the small open kitchen.

Start with rich roasted onion velouté, hiding crispy diced tongue and a cheeky cheese churro for dipping. A mini coronation chicken pie with date purée and celeriac rémoulade evokes summer picnics, while a soft crab lasagne with shellfish bisque is 'floaty like a loosely made bed'. Perfectly cooked pork fillet from Ayrshire is followed by a blue cheese 'royal' on finely shredded Waldorf salad. Dark chocolate crémeux with confit blackberry and almond rounds off proceedings on a pitch-perfect note.

Lazy Sunday? Then it’s comfort-food nirvana – rare Speyside beef, wonky Yorkies, beef-fat garlic roasties, brisket mac 'n' cheese, honeyed roots, crushed vegetables and lashings of gravy. Service is cheery, the atmosphere is lively, and there's a simple but kindly priced wine list too.