Best seafood restaurants in Cornwall
Published 12 January 2024

There's no more appetising way to eat fresh seafood than overlooking a harbour, with a busy fish market close by. Such is the scene at Argoe, which is perched above Mount's Bay at Newlyn. Classic European ways inform the menus, which might kick off with an appetiser of marinated octopus or deeply flavoured home-smoked cod's roe offset by sharp gherkins.

Summer visitors were mightily pleased with their crab, green beans and tomatoes, as well as 'meaty’ balls of minced and braised ray with saffron onions. A whole megrim sole straight from the grill provides a world of ozone-scented satisfaction, dressed in nothing more than browned butter and lemon (‘a faultless piece of fish cookery’), while grilled lobsters (‘deliciously fresh and rich’) are reckoned to be particularly good value, simply doused in herb butter.

A winter menu might feature smoked hake with white beans and leeks, with hand-dived scallops, sardines and black bream being given the grill treatment. There are also a few creative veggie alternatives too – perhaps  roast carrots with pickled walnut and a soft boiled egg. Desserts are simple but far from a mere afterthought, taking in the likes of rhubarb pavlova or clementine sorbet blasted with vodka. A short list of constantly changing but quite pricey low-intervention wines has included a pét-nat version of Beaujolais rosé and a skin-contact German Riesling.

Owned by David Gingell and Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim, the duo behind London venues Westerns Laundry, Primeur and Jolene, this Cornish venture is built on similar foundations: simple cooking, provenance, sustainability and natural wines. Housed in a former bank, yards from Fowey's quay and waterfront, it offers a bijou menu dominated by seafood, while the petite wine list promises a selection of natural tipples from small producers. Note: Fitzroy is a seasonal restaurant, closed from October to March.

Calum and Tracey Greenhalgh's tiny, no-fuss daytime café (just round the corner from the acclaimed Outlaw’s New Road) is all about fish and shellfish. The catch from the Evan George, Calum's boat, takes centre stage and responsible fishing is the name of the game. Visitors delight at the sight of a counter full of tempting seafood – lobsters, crabs, mackerel and much, much more. Crab sandwiches remain a firm favourite, otherwise look out for lobster salad, smoked mackerel pâté, or the feast platter, which is just that: whole lobster, dressed crab, Porthilly oysters. Drink house wine, Prosecco or local beers. Seasonal opening.

It's as well to be aware of the drill at this lively seafood spot smack in the middle of Newlyn: there's no booking, so turn up early and be prepared to wait. The place is fairly small, though for a real definition of ‘small’, look at the space the kitchen team is working in, and you might need to sit outside. Bring a woolly hat. Inside, high stools at long tables make comfortable perches for the laminate menus, on which you note your choices in marker pen. Happy? You will be when the dishes start rolling out.

Scallops with Cornish dukkah and hog's pudding is an inspired mix of traditions, while panko-crumbed prawns come with Asian slaw, or there is katsu-dressed crispy sole. Everything makes a hearty impression – these are the sorts of dishes you can devour with impunity. Finesse isn't the point, and there are plenty of paper napkins on hand for mucky pups.

If you're a stickler for tradition, there will still be beer-battered white fish with tartare sauce, or mussels in creamy cider with crusty bread. Finish with lemon and thyme posset, or chocolate mousse and miso caramel. A handful of wines rises adequately to the task in hand. The additional venue two doors along opens as an overspill in summer, and for weekend set lunches in the winter.

* At lunchtime, guests can now order individually priced dishes in addition to the 'Fish Kitchen to Share' tasting menu. *

‘I saved the best till last,’ commented a visitor to this ‘remarkable small restaurant’ overlooking the slipway. Housed in the oldest building in the fishing village where Doc Martin was filmed, it’s all ancient, gnarled ships’ timbers, a very low ceiling and the definite feeling of pouring a quart into a half-pint pot (the tiny bathroom requires a determined effort at self-compression). The whole place is run with great enthusiasm, with the six-course tasting menu – ‘lovely, simple, brief’ – moving along at a reassuring pace. It’s another string to Nathan Outlaw’s bow, a local, seasonal and sustainable commitment filtering down from parent Outlaw’s New Road at the top of the village. Here, the offerings might take in diced cured bass, dressed in spiced pumpkin ketchup and served on a crisp blue corn tostado (so popular it’s fast achieving cult status); a lobster dumpling in seafood broth, which comes with a piece of sensational sesame toast; and crisply breadcrumbed megrim sole, with pickled slaw and jalapeño mayonnaise. Elsewhere, John Dory was excellent at inspection, big enough in flavour to stand up to an old-school creamy mushroom sauce. With the bounty of the seas getting star billing, you might expect dessert to be a perfunctory offering, but not so. A dome of browned Italian meringue contains seductively tangy passion fruit and lime parfait on a coconut shortbread biscuit base. There are some aristocratic wines on the short list, with both Cornwall and the classic French regions showing up well. Note, the tiny dimensions mean that the Fish Kitchen gets booked up way ahead.

If you’re looking for a casual, cut-price take on the 'Padstein' experience, this all-purpose eatery in the frenetic hinterland of downtown Padstow should fit the bill. Drop by for breakfast or a cup of coffee, feed the kids at lunchtime or book in for a ‘very enjoyable evening’ against a backdrop of bright colours, white walls and light-wood furniture – there are even three bedrooms upstairs if you fancy staying over. As you might expect, the kitchen majors in seafood from the Padstow boats, so dip into an assortment of Rick Stein’s greatest hits at user-friendly prices. Briny freshness and globetrotting flavours collide in classics such as Thai fishcakes, mussels with black beans, garlic and ginger or grilled hake with spring onion mash and soy butter. The kitchen is also happy to go off-piste, offering chargrilled rump steak with peppery rocket, thin-cut chips and béarnaise sauce, as well as a veggie stew of tomatoes, aubergines and tamarind – plus sourdough for dunking. For afters, sticky toffee pud with clotted cream is the go-to option. A cluster of fish-friendly wines (from £23) provide suitable refreshment.

Sitting majestically at one end of Padstow, Rick Stein's family-run flagship is truly one of the heritage addresses of British gastronomy. In business continuously since 1975, it has played a major role in overcoming what was the national ambivalence about seafood. Those who always claimed they liked fish but didn't know what to do with it have been inspired by a range of dishes that has never shied away from stepping off the straight and narrow – witness the likes of Indonesian fish curry with green bean and coconut salad, or vigorously spiced monkfish with roasted butternut squash and crispy chicken skin.

At heart, though, it's sterling tradition that is celebrated most fulsomely here, producing hearty Provençal-style fish soup with rouille and croûtons, platters of cold or hot fruits de mer, and main courses such as casseroled hake, chargrilled sea bass with tomato, butter and vanilla vinaigrette, or the show-stopping lobster thermidor in cream and Noilly Prat, served with skinny chips. People appreciate the bright, relaxing atmosphere and the first-class service, and even if the cost of it all can mount up formidably, it is usually felt to be worth the outlay.

Bistro-style desserts round things off with classics such as lemon tart, chocolate fondant or passion-fruit pavlova. Wines by the glass open with a quality Muscadet Sur Lie, the kind of seafood-friendly white that has all but disappeared from other lists. The quality throughout is highly commendable, but markups may well be found too hot to handle.