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The restaurateur and art dealer Andrew Edmunds has died at the age of 79. Here, the chef Jeremy Lee remembers him, and pays tribute to a Soho legacy built.

So, where to eat in Soho? This once seedy, swinging, central London neighbourhood might look a little smarter now, but it’s hardly less vibrant than its former heyday. Its neat grid of streets are peppered with eclectic restaurants boasting some of the best Sri Lankan, Syrian, Thai, Persian, French, Taiwanese ......

Sat Bains heads to London for one night only, Cinnamon Soho closes its doors and Matt Gillan launches new casual food brand in a West Sussex pub

Liverpool opening for the team behind Marram Grass, Cinnamon Kitchen City celebrates tenth anniversary with feasting dinner and Blacklock launches its Shoreditch restaurant

‘If I had a restaurant that was 80% bigger, I’d have trolleys for everything,’ says Victor Garvey, executive chef at Sola in Soho. ‘A flambé trolley for sure – you can do your duck or lobster à la presse, you can do your crêpes Suzette. Trolleys are about tableside theatre. They add something to a restaurant that you can’t get any other way. And they’re fun.’