I’ve got two minor gripes with Impala and I’ll get those out of the way first.
One. The stools at the counter. I’m a counter person – it’s usually my favourite place to sit. But these? Not kind. Every 20 minutes or so I found myself standing up just to bring some feeling back to my nether regions.
Then there was the service. It wasn’t great (though from speaking to others, this seems to have been a one-off). This is a menu that really needs a bit of guidance, not in a conceptual way but just a clear explanation of the ingredients and what you’re actually ordering – and that wasn’t forthcoming on the night.
That said, Impala is about far more than slightly punishing seating and a wobbly service on a busy night just a couple of weeks out from its opening. Both are fixable, and neither should put you off.
This new restaurant, in a nondescript 1950s office block at the Lizzy Line end of Soho’s Dean Street, is from Super8 who’ve built one of the most exciting restaurant groups in London. They’re behind Smoking Goat, Kiln, Brat and Mountain, and if you know those, you’ll know fire is at the heart of what they do. Same story here. As you walk in, a big charcoal grill and wood-fired oven dominate the right-hand side of the room. If you’ve been to Mountain, on the other side of Soho, you’ll spot the family resemblance straight away, especially in the interiors and that curated sideboard as you enter. Best seats in the house are at the counter for two (numb bum aside) by the pass, overlooking the duck press.
Head chef and co-owner Meedu Saad was previously head chef at Kiln, and remains exec chef there, but Impala feels much more personal to him and his heritage. It’s named after the Chevrolet Impala his father used to drive the family around Egypt on holidays. Egypt and North Africa are an integral part of his cooking here. His classic French training as a chef and growing up in north London are the other elements that bring this menu to life, with ingredients and flavours unique to London.
As I mentioned earlier, this does mean you’ll probably want a bit of help with the menu. Aish baladi is a traditional Egyptian flatbread. Pastilla is a savoury baklava. Sheftalia is a Cypriot sausage wrapped in caul fat. Bird’s tongue pasta, basically orzo, braised with spiced oxtail, was a standout. Cull yaw (mutton) chops, served with sheep-fat potatoes, was a reminder of what well-reared meat should taste like. Dessert is kept simple, just one option – a date and pistachio tart.
As you’d expect from Super8, the wine list is engaging without being intimidating. Glasses start at £7 – I enjoyed a couple of Bourgogne Aligoté at £12.
London is seeing some of its most exciting openings at a time when it’s incredibly tough for restaurants. If you’re making a list, Impala should be right up there. It’s personal, distinctive and a bit of a learning curve in the best way. Exactly what eating out should be about. Numb bum and all.
NB: For full transparency, when we asked for the bill, it came back heavily discounted but we would definitely have been happy to pay full whack for what was, indeed, good food.
WHERE 13-14 Dean St London W1D 3RS
FOLLOW @impala.soho
BOOK impalasoho.com
