Simpson’s in the Strand has been 25 years in the making for Jeremy King. In March, the restaurateur behind The Wolseley and The Park reopened the last of London’s grande dame restaurants, on the Strand in central London.
For readers of a certain age, Simpson’s might conjure memories of a bygone era. For others it will remind them of a parent or relative taking them for lunch to enjoy roast beef from famous silver carving trolleys in the Grand Divan. For others, it might be the first time traversing the famed revolving doors.
Importantly, for readers of all generations and anyone with an interest in restaurants, the reopened Simpson’s in the Strand is so much more than just one restaurant. This is a project that should not only be applauded – particularly considering the current environment for restaurants – but also one that looks set to become King’s legacy. Here follows an overview of Simpson’s.
The Grand Divan
Through the double doors under the clock that is rumoured to have stopped when the first woman walked into the dining room, is the most famous of the spaces in Simpson’s. King, along with his longtime interiors collaborator Shayne Brady, has carefully brought the dining room back to life. The large banquettes remain, as does the Bill of Fare (the menu) with English classics. Of course, the carving trolley with the roast beef is back. Yet, in true Jeremy King style, the menu offers affordability with a handful of main courses under £20. It is open for breakfast (do treat yourself to the 10 deadly sins at least once), lunch and dinner.
Simpson’s Bar
Simpson’s is the home of chess and a walk around the building reveals subtle references to this heritage from the carpet to artwork. Facing the Strand on the first floor is Simpson’s Bar. A beautifully designed space for a pre-lunch sharpener or an icy martini before dinner.
Romano’s
Across from Simpson’s Bar is Romano’s, a more relaxed and informal restaurant than the Grand Divan. While the menu is still British, there’s a strong French accent. Alongside the carte, a keenly priced prix-fixe menu of two course for £21 or three courses for £24.75 is on offer. The signature dish is the ‘Crème Pink ‘Un’ soup – a crayfish bisque made to the same recipe as its first outing on the menu in the 19th century. Think steak frites, cumberland sausage and goujons of haddock for mains. Romano’s beautifully lends itself to a pre- or post-theatre spot. Be sure to ask to see the dessert trolley.
Nellie’s Tavern
What could probably be described as the naughtiest space within Simpson’s, Nellie’s is a late night bar on the lower ground floor of the building. Named after opera diva Dame Nellie Melba, the room is dark and moody: burgundy walls and animal print fabrics, which make for a perfect backdrop for a negroni or two. Expect a theatre and film crowd. Nellie’s is a much-welcomed cocktail bar in this part of town that is neither a private members club or in a hotel.
WHERE 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EZ
FOLLOW @simpsons1828
BOOK simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
