Wild Honey

As dining rooms go there can be few more striking than this dramatic double-height space on the ground floor of the Sofitel St James Hotel. It's very grand, in a famous Parisian brasserie kind of way – a smart, polished environment that caters for a well-heeled crowd. Anthony Demetre remains a hands-on presence and a key part in the friendly, welcoming atmosphere that keeps guests coming back for more. His kitchen continues to turn out a mix of French classics with gentle modern touches and a fierce adherence to the seasons. Wild mushroom tart served with a fricassée of wild mushrooms and hazelnut sabayon, or crispy chicken with hand-cut macaroni and black winter truffles, typify the fresh, lively flavours that could be followed, perhaps, by fallow deer and slow-cooked celeriac with walnut and cocoa, kumquat marmalade and a grand veneur sauce. Finish with the signature wild-honey ice cream served with Bermondsey raw honeycomb, warm honey and lemon madeleine, though for some reporters, the sweet comfort of a classic custard tart can’t be beaten. The set lunch and pre-theatre menu is splendid value. There’s a serious dedication to drinks, too, with well-tailored cocktails and a wine list that takes in a sweeping global shuffle, lingering longest in France.