A first look at The Northwic
Published 26 October 2026

Chef Liam Nichols is back in town, his hometown – Norwich. Two years on from the closure of Store at Stoke Mill where Liam had been head chef for three years, and after several months travelling in Southeast Asia followed by private cheffing in Surrey and one very busy summer of renovation work, he has opened his first solo venture, The Northwic.

Named after Norwich’s Old English name, The Northwic spans two floors in the handsome, double-fronted building on Lower Goat Lane vacated by Biddy’s Tea Room, which moved opposite. Downstairs, the bar with its window seats is a great spot for a people-watching pre-dinner drink, and there’s a 10-seat private dining space. Upstairs, 12 seats at an L-shaped counter give prime views of the kitchen with a further six set around a curved booth.

The vibe is fun, sociable, cheerful; restaurant manager Tom Slegg and Liam set that tone with their warmth and ability to run a seemingly effortless service. It’s stylish too. Deep blue walls and ceilings are cleverly lit to be functional but flattering. There are pops of turquoise in the chefs’ aprons and the upholstery (worry not, counter sceptics: the high seats are comfortable). The bespoke joinery is stunning. This is a place conceived with bucketloads of creative, contemporary vision.

And Liam’s culinary pedigree sings full throttle. His style is classically rooted thanks to time at Midsummer House and Restaurant Sat Bains, and Asia-inflected thanks to travel and jobs in Melbourne and New York. The five-course menu (plus snacks and a chocolate ‘Aero’ finale) costs £75, plus optional £55 wine pairing, but the so-called Full Send (seven courses for £95 with a six-glass pairing for £75) is the one to choose, not least because it’s a steal at that price, and you might get the sensational seared bass dish with Thai green curry sauce, a tangle of radish and loads of lime. It’s delicate, precise, bursts with energetic flavour; Store regulars might remember a similar scallop dish. I’d come back for that dish alone.

Whichever menu you choose, the opening snacks are playful bites, especially the buttermilk-fried chicken with taramasalata and chilli oil dip, and an intense beef tartare with black garlic dressing in a brik pastry tube. Bread is house-made and malty, deserving of being a standalone course with salt-flecked French butter.

Liam’s recent time in China inspired his tingling Szechuan pork dish, the rich ragù on impossibly smooth baked dashi custard covered with freshening chives, pickled turnip and coriander cress. And there’s a belter of a hake dish, the just-poached fish slipped onto celeriac purée, with chicken sauce, chopped hazelnuts, pickled celeriac and a volley of shaved truffle. It’s an umami-fest that pairs beautifully with a full-bodied 2022 sauvignon blanc from South African winery, Lismore.

Yuzu and raspberry – again, memories of a Store dessert surface – feature in a beautifully fresh final tartlet, composed in front of guests (with impressive composure) by Liam’s one-to-watch young pastry chef.

A handful of wines are offered by the 125ml pour (including the iconic Californian Ridge Monte Bello Bordeaux blend for £50), with bottles from £36 for a Portuguese vinho verde. Mark-ups are modest, especially at the top end where a 2019 Meursault premier cru (Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard) is £270, and a 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin (Vignes Belles Domaine Thierry Mortet) £140. A non-alcoholic pairing would be an exciting next step on the drinks front.

The Northwic has already become one of Norwich’s hardest to book spots, and while the city is well stocked with excellent, varied places to eat, there’s always room for something truly exceptional and truly fun. Here it is.