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The Maltsters Arms

Devon, Tuckenhay - Modern British - Pub with Rooms - £££

Keith Floyd's old pub gets a new lease of life

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Tuckenhay is tucked into the crook of the river Harbourne, overlooking the tidal ooze, just before it feeds into the mighty Dart, and the Maltsters rewards a hair-raising scoot along single-track lanes by rising, beige and quietly majestic above the waterside, where parasoled tables await the sun. Once owned by the late Keith Floyd, it was acquired by the proprietors of the Rising Sun at Lynmouth in spring 2025, with the services of none other than MasterChef: The Professionals winner Anton Piotrowski overseeing a kitchen run by the amply talented Dan Morris. There are many dining areas to choose from, all adorned with pleasant pictures and riverine views, while the lengthy menu is prefaced by the kinds of snacks that are more like starters – say, spider-crab or cuttlefish croquettes on herbed mayo and samphire. Some Slapton clams had just come in when we visited, and arrived Spanish-style, in a lidded pot with a light creamy broth. Japanese flavours are mined for their full uma...

Tuckenhay is tucked into the crook of the river Harbourne, overlooking the tidal ooze, just before it feeds into the mighty Dart, and the Maltsters rewards a hair-raising scoot along single-track lanes by rising, beige and quietly majestic above the waterside, where parasoled tables await the sun. Once owned by the late Keith Floyd, it was acquired by the proprietors of the Rising Sun at Lynmouth in spring 2025, with the services of none other than MasterChef: The Professionals winner Anton Piotrowski overseeing a kitchen run by the amply talented Dan Morris.

There are many dining areas to choose from, all adorned with pleasant pictures and riverine views, while the lengthy menu is prefaced by the kinds of snacks that are more like starters – say, spider-crab or cuttlefish croquettes on herbed mayo and samphire. Some Slapton clams had just come in when we visited, and arrived Spanish-style, in a lidded pot with a light creamy broth. Japanese flavours are mined for their full umami potential in a starter of scallops with ponzu and wasabi mayonnaise, or there is a technically fascinating serving of monkfish wrapped in pork crackling. The populist touch is evident in a main course of lemonade-battered haddock with chips and curry sauce, or venison with mushroom ketchup. Our lamb rump came amid an international brigade of creamy, assertively herbed ratatouille, roasted feta, dots of garlicky/lemony baba ganoush, and dried anchovies – although the meat needed a little more cooking to render its fat and bring up the surprisingly shy flavour.

To finish, the carrot cake reinvention that stunned the MasterChef judges is available on the Maltsters menu, as is chocolate mousse with a cornflake cake and caramelised banana. Wines are a rather conservative bunch in today's climate, but the Bougrier Gamay from a pair of siblings in the Languedoc is fully worth a punt for even the heftier meat dishes. When the Maltsters really hits its stride, we can expect great things.

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VENUE DETAILS

Main Road
Tuckenhay
Devon
TQ9 7EQGB

01803 262341

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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