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The Lacy Nook

London, Walthamstow - Balkan - Restaurant - ££

An evangelist for Balkan cuisine in E17

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

You certainly wouldn’t guess it from the name, but the Lacy Nook is a Balkan restaurant in the midst of Walthamstow's suburbia. Equally offbeat is the dining room – somewhere between a beach shack and a pergola, with awnings that drop down and heaters that huff out heat to ensure dining in all weathers and seasons. Luckily it's often packed, with ample body heat emanating from the many locals who have frequented the place since it relocated from Stoke Newington. Besides, the real focus is on the kitchen, a shipping container-like box outside, which wafts the aromas of cuisine from the Adriatic shores to the Dinaric uplands.  Start with bread (barbecued and topped with Marmite-treacle mushrooms and kefalograviera cheese) alongside a broad selection of meze – a dish of feta/Caesar dip with artichokes, nigella seeds, anchovies and dill was a star on our recent visit. Beyond this, small plates riffing on Balkan cuisine are the heartland of the menu: try charred hisp...

You certainly wouldn’t guess it from the name, but the Lacy Nook is a Balkan restaurant in the midst of Walthamstow's suburbia. Equally offbeat is the dining room – somewhere between a beach shack and a pergola, with awnings that drop down and heaters that huff out heat to ensure dining in all weathers and seasons. Luckily it's often packed, with ample body heat emanating from the many locals who have frequented the place since it relocated from Stoke Newington. Besides, the real focus is on the kitchen, a shipping container-like box outside, which wafts the aromas of cuisine from the Adriatic shores to the Dinaric uplands. 

Start with bread (barbecued and topped with Marmite-treacle mushrooms and kefalograviera cheese) alongside a broad selection of meze – a dish of feta/Caesar dip with artichokes, nigella seeds, anchovies and dill was a star on our recent visit. Beyond this, small plates riffing on Balkan cuisine are the heartland of the menu: try charred hispi cabbage with rose harissa, labneh and crispy kadaif or, perhaps, flavoursome lemon chicken with skordalia purée and olives.

The owner is Macedonian, but inspiration is sourced from across the Balkan Peninsula – witness Serbian-style beef pljeskavica (a burger riff) with pickles and kajmak (the local answer to clotted cream). Desserts are less of a focus (Basque cheesecake was the only option when we were there), but many linger on for drinks: the short wine list has Balkan offerings, plus shots of rakija. And everyone is grateful for the small glossary of Balkan cuisine in the corner of the menu.

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VENUE DETAILS

Wood Street Studios, Barrett Road
Walthamstow
E17 3FUGB

07763 418275

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OTHER INFORMATION

Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

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