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The Chubby Castor

Cambridgeshire, Castor - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Having worked alongside some of London's finest (Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, Philip Howard), Adebola Adeshina's latest venture finds him holed up at the Fitzwilliam Arms – an immaculately thatched, Grade II-listed village pub some four miles from Peterborough. Inside, starched, white-clothed tables and a slick-looking kitchen opening onto the pristine dining room speak of ambition. Seasonal produce (some from the garden) is given an impressive workout, with an excellent sense of balance and pin-sharp presentation showing off the chef's pedigree. Openers including a 'swirl' of tomato bread with herb butter and a trio of dainty amuse-bouches set the tone, and there is much more to follow: our top pick was a brilliantly cohesive pairing of scallop, polenta and wild rice with a fabulous corn velouté – ‘comforting and moreish but still light and airy’. Main courses prove that the kitchen can handle the heavy-hitting flavours of an exemplary tournedos Rossin...

Having worked alongside some of London's finest (Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, Philip Howard), Adebola Adeshina's latest venture finds him holed up at the Fitzwilliam Arms – an immaculately thatched, Grade II-listed village pub some four miles from Peterborough. Inside, starched, white-clothed tables and a slick-looking kitchen opening onto the pristine dining room speak of ambition. Seasonal produce (some from the garden) is given an impressive workout, with an excellent sense of balance and pin-sharp presentation showing off the chef's pedigree. Openers including a 'swirl' of tomato bread with herb butter and a trio of dainty amuse-bouches set the tone, and there is much more to follow: our top pick was a brilliantly cohesive pairing of scallop, polenta and wild rice with a fabulous corn velouté – ‘comforting and moreish but still light and airy’. Main courses prove that the kitchen can handle the heavy-hitting flavours of an exemplary tournedos Rossini as well as more delicate contemporary ideas. A tranche of Loch Duart salmon, cooked in the simplest way possible, is elevated by its companions: a prawn raviolo in a foamy prawn sauce, some asparagus spears, and a sauce gribiche topped with tiny florets of romanesco and edible flowers. Classically inclined expertise continues right to the end, witness an impressively risen, light-as-air strawberry soufflé offset by a basil sorbet and crème de cassis. Relaxed service (easy-going but always on-point) ensures that proceedings never descend into stuffy formality, while the globetrotting wine list offers a decent spread including some tasty Coravin selections. The big open space at the back of the place now functions as the Yard – a summertime alfresco venue with its own menu.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Fitzwilliam Arms, 34 Peterborough Road
Castor
Cambridgeshire
PE5 7AXGB

01733 380801

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OTHER INFORMATION

Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required

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