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Starling

Surrey, Esher - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Exceedingly impressive balance of bistro and fine dining

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

‘A very noteworthy addition to the Surrey dining scene,’ Starling references the namesake avian and its murmuration displays with copper-colour bird-in-flight pendant lights and an ornithological mural against a stylishly modern backdrop of half-panelled walls and blue padded booths. Staff are suitably ‘chirpy’ too, while ticking all the boxes for friendliness and well-oiled professionalism.  Chef-patron Nick Beardshaw has a formidable pedigree, most notably as Tom Kerridge’s right-hand man, and his menus are peppered with ingredients from highly respected producers and suppliers. Boldly flavoured, perfectly executed snacks such as truffle cheese crumpets and honey-glazed chicken nuggets immediately set the tone before show-stopping starters have their say. Despite its rather gimmicky presentation, ‘A Moon-Shaped Pool’ (one of Beardshaw’s contributions to Great British Menu 2023) delivers some seriously gifted, thoughtful ...

‘A very noteworthy addition to the Surrey dining scene,’ Starling references the namesake avian and its murmuration displays with copper-colour bird-in-flight pendant lights and an ornithological mural against a stylishly modern backdrop of half-panelled walls and blue padded booths. Staff are suitably ‘chirpy’ too, while ticking all the boxes for friendliness and well-oiled professionalism. 

Chef-patron Nick Beardshaw has a formidable pedigree, most notably as Tom Kerridge’s right-hand man, and his menus are peppered with ingredients from highly respected producers and suppliers. Boldly flavoured, perfectly executed snacks such as truffle cheese crumpets and honey-glazed chicken nuggets immediately set the tone before show-stopping starters have their say. Despite its rather gimmicky presentation, ‘A Moon-Shaped Pool’ (one of Beardshaw’s contributions to Great British Menu 2023) delivers some seriously gifted, thoughtful cooking involving a super-fresh, sweet Orkney scallop, luscious green Thai curry, ‘salty fingers’ and marinated cucumber.

Mains might bring bang-in-season English asparagus with punchy glazed morels and a perfect deep-fried egg nesting on a ring of soft polenta, or West End Farm pork tenderloin served with braised baby gem, a slice of malt-glazed pork cheek, dehydrated crackling, glazed shallot and gherkin gravy – a masterclass in balanced flavours, textures and seasoning. Prime steaks also receive serious consideration (including Freedown Hills olive-fed wagyu ribeye). To conclude, there might be an English strawberry sundae or Amalfi lemon tart, but it’s hard to resist Beardshaw’s much-lauded Banksy-inspired ‘Balloon Girl’ (another GBM standout), a heart-shaped raspberry-glazed cheesecake/chocolate torte hybrid represented the 'balloon', with white chocolate-coated rice paper depicting the image itself.

There's also an impressively good-value midweek lunch offer ranging from chalk stream trout pâté with a buttered crumpet to an exceedingly comforting plateful of Cotswold White chicken, soft polenta, peas and bacon. Wines served in top-quality glassware provide the final touch of class, with a cherry-picked selection of producers from around the globe and some appealing by-the-glass selections at fair prices. 

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VENUE DETAILS

3 High Street
Esher
Surrey
KT10 9RLGB

01372 650015

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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