Red Lion at East Chisenbury

‘I’m from London but happily go to Wiltshire to eat at the Red Lion,’ declared one reader who loves everything about this ‘brilliant village pub’. Snuggled away in a pastoral backwater on the remote fringes of Salisbury Plain, the self-styled and impressively thatched ‘Freehouse’ amply fulfils its obligations as a local (indie real ales and jolly chatter at the bar), although Guy and Brittany Manning have long established the place as a serious gastronomic destination. The food is defined by big natural flavours in the Anglo-European idiom, be it a terrine of Salisbury Plain venison with Armagnac prunes, chargrilled chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef or Cornish monkfish accompanied by roast romanesco, cauliflower purée, brown shrimp and sauce grenobloise. These are dishes culled from the carte, but you can also partake of a five-course tasting menu offering the likes of scallop and crab tortellono with ras el hanout bisque or English rose veal partnered by potato millefeuille, steamed spinach and chanterelles. Desserts follow a similar path, so expect anything from orange-blossom panna cotta with Yorkshire rhubarb to dark chocolate délice with poached kumquat, fennel pollen and biscotti ice cream. Otherwise, the cheese plate is ‘immaculate.’ The well-annotated wine list includes around 20 selections by the glass or carafe, with bottles from £23. Accommodation is across the road at the Troutbeck Guest House, a boutique B&B by the river.