Edinburgh, Lothians

Rating: Good

Modern European | Restaurant

Sitting pretty in Edinburgh’s trendy Stockbridge district, this bijou, personally run restaurant plies its trade in a cosy but smart basement furnished in pleasantly informal, metropolitan style, complete with cushions, plants and prints. Dinner is a tasting menu of five or seven courses, where classic ideas are given savvy modern interpretations: roast pigeon breast might arrive in company with quinoa, beetroot, chicory and Granny Smith apple; salmon gets the elevated ballotine treatment; and there’s a complex assiette of lamb involving roast cannon, a boudin of sweetbreads, braised leg and sautéed lamb’s liver with all manner of accompaniments. After that, a pre-dessert heralds the likes of chocolate and raspberry mousse or rhubarb with apricot purée, vanilla-poached apricots, ginger bread and yoghurt sorbet. At lunchtime, you can pick from a smaller carte of simpler dishes such as smoked ham hock with white bean cassoulet or roast chicken breast with fondant potato and Vichy carrots. The wine list is a hand-picked selection of (mostly) organic bottles from vineyards and producers across the globe.