Pomelo

They outgrew their cupboard-sized unit in Marchmont almost as soon as they opened – now you'll find Pomelo tucked half-a-mile along the road in Sciennes, replacing Jess Dennison Elliott's eponymous southside café. The new site is only marginally bigger, but the dark-walled dining room squeezes in a few more covers in a less communal format than before, plus a couple of tables out on the pavement. It's a cosy, slightly rustic space, flooded with the enticing aromas of whatever's cooking in the back.

With the relocation, chef-owner Jun Au (ex-Castle Terrace and the Grain Store) has broadened Pomelo's offer, moving beyond the biang-biang noodles that originally flagged him on the city's culinary radar. While you'll still hear a happy 'slap slap slap' as the next batch is stretched out in the kitchen, there’s much more to delight the senses. Walk-in lunches (Wed-Sat) offer a snapshot of the greatest hits from their early days: the crispy fried chicken sandwich gains a sweet, punchy heat from its gochujang coating, while those stretchy, slightly chewy belt-sized noodles are still just as delicious, served with tender, heavily spiced pork, and soused in an intense garlic and chilli sauce. Also check out Pomelo's Sunday brunch offer.

In the evening, the kitchen ramps up its ambitions. Modelled as a Chinese family dinner, it features a range of small plates bringing together Asian and Western culinary techniques, ingredients and flavours. On a recent visit, a pleasingly intense trio of vegetable banchan was followed by Au’s fish-fragrant take on a Sicilian caponata. After that, there might be roast duck with kumquats and cauliflower or a beautifully cooked fillet of coley crowned with a hugely aromatic Cantonese curry, closer to a heavily spiced vegetable ragù than a light sauce. Like much of the menu, the flavours are huge, bold and satisfying, regardless of whether the dish is an authentic homage, or something a little more out of the ordinary. To drink, pick from the short, all-natural wine list or try one of the cocktails listed on the blackboard.