Ogof

Spread over two floors with bare wood, beige walls and mismatched china creating a low-key DIY vibe, this laid-back bottle shop-cum-restaurant is right at home in the increasingly foodie neighbourhood of Pontcanna. The homely upstairs room is bookable, while the ground floor is reserved for walk-ins and those just wanting to drink. With its seats in the window and at a central island counter overlooking a big hatch into the kitchen, we thought this was the livelier option..

Chef Alex Vines' menus focus on locally sourced organic, seasonal vegetables with meat and fish as an occasional treat: a short but inventive selection of salads and sandwiches on delicious home-baked bread for weekday lunches, plus an evening chalkboard featuring a dozen or so sharing dishes that might include a smoked haddock rarebit pie or an ‘exceptional’ confit belly pork with crispy crackling. Wine, chosen by co-owner Siôn Iorwerth, is natural and produced with minimal intervention – a single red, white and orange available on tap, served by the glass, 500ml carafe or bottle. Alternatively, take advice and choose something from the ground-floor shelves.