Maremma
Brixton, London
Given that Brixton has a reputation for exciting startups, it’s curious to find what is essentially a traditional Italian neighbourhood restaurant cropping up in this part of town. It's a very considered place done out in minimalist style (think exposed concrete, mirrors and dark wood accentuating a couple of large-format artworks) and named after the Maremma, an unspoilt region in the south of Tuscany famed for its sparkling seasonal produce (and its luscious Super Tuscan wines). The kitchen shows its mettle with a repertoire of classically prepared dishes that are ‘deeply Italian’ rather than ornamental. Pasta is a good call, and it's done to a high standard, from pumpkin pansotti with butter and sage or pici with pistachio pesto to pappardelle with a ‘velvety and effortlessly soft’ wild boar ragù. Elsewhere, beef battuta (an Italian take in beef tartare) is everything you could wish for, while seafood might be represented by butterflied mackerel with beetroot salad and salsa verde. Also, don’t miss the heady, sweet pumpkin sformato served with truffle cream and truffle shavings if it's available – ‘an autumnal masterclass of a dish.’ Everything is served simply and without pretension by a knowledgeable, welcoming team. Reasonably priced Italian cocktails are well worth sipping at the counter, and the all-Italian wine list is loaded with affordable selections by the glass or 500ml carafe.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Deposit required
36 Brixton Water Lane, Brixton SW2 1PE
020 3186 4011
