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Edinbane Lodge

Highlands & Islands, Isle of Skye - Modern Scottish - Restaurant with rooms - ££££

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Exceptional

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Exceptional

Veer off the Portree to Dunvegan road in northern Skye to find the leafy little hamlet of Edinbane and what was, until 2017, a derelict 16th-century hunting lodge on a shaded riverbank. Converted into a restaurant with rooms by a young local chef, it is now one of the most talked-about kitchens on the island. The decor is traditional, cosy but understated design-wise, ranging from low-beamed ceilings, dark wood panelling and teal paintwork to tartan carpeting in muted hues and chocolate-brown leather chairs. The background music steers a similarly safe course, a medley for the middle-aged. The interiors might not make your pulse race, but the menu will. Immediately attention-grabbing is Calum Montgomery's focus on provenance. A separate sheet accompanying the 10-course taster lists the fishermen, foragers and crofters by name, many of whom are friends and family: Calum’s uncle Alasdair caught the hake and monkfish, while his cousin Peter MacAskill harvested the rope-grown mu...

Veer off the Portree to Dunvegan road in northern Skye to find the leafy little hamlet of Edinbane and what was, until 2017, a derelict 16th-century hunting lodge on a shaded riverbank. Converted into a restaurant with rooms by a young local chef, it is now one of the most talked-about kitchens on the island. The decor is traditional, cosy but understated design-wise, ranging from low-beamed ceilings, dark wood panelling and teal paintwork to tartan carpeting in muted hues and chocolate-brown leather chairs. The background music steers a similarly safe course, a medley for the middle-aged. The interiors might not make your pulse race, but the menu will. Immediately attention-grabbing is Calum Montgomery's focus on provenance. A separate sheet accompanying the 10-course taster lists the fishermen, foragers and crofters by name, many of whom are friends and family: Calum’s uncle Alasdair caught the hake and monkfish, while his cousin Peter MacAskill harvested the rope-grown mussels (served barbecued and topped with a silky potato mousse). The distance from producer to plate is noted too, with the wagyu beef from Perthshire the biggest schlep (198 miles). At our test meal, this arrived with truffle and red wine jus, plus a solitary chip-shaped, satisfyingly crunchy roast potato and carrot (puréed and pickled). Equally impressive was a giant scallop, hand-dived and plucked from the waters off the small island of Rona, meaty and tender, served on a smoky seaweed butter sauce laced with diced cucumber. An unexpected highlight was the bread course. The warm, steamed brioche with its sprinkling of crispy ham and chives was soft and moreish, smeared with an unctuous wild black-garlic butter, the herb gleaned from the lodge's grounds. Another wild picking, meadowsweet, features in the pre-dessert ice cream and is also one of the botanicals in the house gin, made by a local distillery. Even the 'handcrafted' tonic water, (from Walter Gregor in Aberdeenshire) has well-documented provenance. There's a wine flight matched to the tasting menu, of course, while the carefully curated list focuses on the Old World with nine by the glass – although the signature cocktails and local beers (try the Cuillin Brewery's Seaweed IPA) are every bit as noteworthy.

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D Johnston

11 December 2024

Dining at Edinbane Lodge was truly an unforgettable experience, and I can confidently say it’s the finest meal I’ve had in Scotland—even surpassing the many Michelin-starred restaurants I've dined in. The food was nothing short of exceptional, with each dish showcasing fresh, locally sourced ingredients and an imaginative approach to flavour. The eight-course tasting menu was excellent, with many ingredients sourced from the restaurant’s own garden as well as from local crofters and fish...
Dining at Edinbane Lodge was truly an unforgettable experience, and I can confidently say it’s the finest meal I’ve had in Scotland—even surpassing the many Michelin-starred restaurants I've dined in. The food was nothing short of exceptional, with each dish showcasing fresh, locally sourced ingredients and an imaginative approach to flavour. The eight-course tasting menu was excellent, with many ingredients sourced from the restaurant’s own garden as well as from local crofters and fishermen. I couldn’t pick a favorite course—they were all so unique and delicious—but I must mention the locally caught monkfish (landed by the chefs uncle) and super-fresh scallops, hand dived from a sea loch just one mile from the restaurant which were absolutely outstanding. The attention to detail in both presentation and taste was evident in every course, and I appreciated the thoughtful explanations from the staff about where each ingredient came from. The service was another standout feature. The staff were professional, knowledgable, friendly, and attentive without being intrusive. I was especially impressed by how the staff wore black gloves, which added a refined touch to the overall atmosphere. Chef Calum himself stopped by our table to say hello, and it was clear that his passion for local produce and his skill in the kitchen shine through in every dish. All in all, Edinbane Lodge offers an exceptional dining experience that is truly world class and well-deserving of its Michelin recognition, although a star is surely overdue. It’s a place I’ll eagerly return to, and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting the Isle of Skye. It's worth a special trip to this lovely island, on it's own.
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VENUE DETAILS

Old Dunvegan Road, Edinbane
Isle of Skye
Highlands & Islands
IV51 9PWGB

01470 582217

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

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