Canal

For his latest opening, Dom Hamdy (of Crispin and Bistro Freddie fame) has taken possession of the ground floor of a new apartment block in Westbourne Park overlooking the Grand Union Canal. The dining space looks sharp with an industrial fit-out (exposed ventilation, concrete flooring, pillars etc), softened by wooden furnishings and olive-green banquettes, all bookended by an open-plan kitchen and a square bar with counter seating. There's also a terrace.

The kitchen works to a menu of seasonal, modern European sharing plates featuring produce from reputable sources (Layla sourdough and Coombeshead Farm jamón, for example), and while we were impressed with the freshness of a snack of crab toast we were not bowled over by 'the table cheeseburger' – a signature smashed burger with runny Cheddar and soft milk buns. Far more interesting was Cornish monkfish flanked by clams and fat mussels, topped with sea purslane and served with orzo in a velvety buttery tomato sauce. And we were glad we saved room for a delicious brown butter and almond cake with sour cherries. 

The drinks list takes things up a notch or two with cocktails (courtesy of Haggerston's A Bar with Shapes for a Name), plus exciting natural wines from £39, with plenty by the glass from £7.