Cail Bruich
Glasgow, Strathclyde
The verdant decor and sylvan accents of the staff outfits subtly re-affirm that impeccable food and perfectly judged service are ever-green. Since 2020, Cail Bruich has been under the meticulous eye of chef Lorna McNee, protégée of the late, much-lamented chef Andrew Fairlie. The team are certainly not resting on any laurels as they continue to grow an enviable reputation on sustainable values, local provenance, artfully designed dishes and technical precision. Don’t be fooled by the relatively understated environment, this is top-notch food delivered by engaged and committed professionals. Two set menus are available – the shorter one at lunchtimes only. Opening snacks are a statement of intent: a fragile langoustine tartelette spiked with lemon gel or a single boned chicken wing on a customised silver skewer – perfection. Scottish seafood shines as West Coast brown crab is paired with raw Orkney scallop on a subtle Jerusalem artichoke custard – all brought together by a delicate dashi and hazelnut puffed rice. A sense of playfulness remains part of the technical masterclass: ‘mushrooms on toast’ adds duxelles of oyster mushroom, chicken-stuffed morels and generously shaved black truffle to a golden brioche with a rich Madeira cream and balsamic notes. The kitchen is prepared to take bold liberties with flavour in a cod and pork creation where a gleaming pig's trotter broth provides the yin to the yang of a rich langoustine bisque and additional spoons are needed to ensure the final specks are cleansed from the bespoke crockery. However, simplicity is equally celebrated with rosy blackface lamb unadorned alongside fat-headed asparagus and wild leek. Finish, perhaps, with a Valrhona chocolate confection – a precious ingot of multiple layers and textures, cut with blood orange sorbet and an orange-infused olive oil. The wine and drinks lists offer individuality without the urge to be encyclopaedic or unaffordable. Bold twists to cocktail classics such as a briny caviar Martini (distinctively dirty) or a very grown-up black truffle amaretto sour push flavour to the fore. The approachable sommelier recognises customer preferences and budgets while proffering well-targeted suggestions. Front-of-house staff are not just knowledgeable but also bring passion, humour and personal interest. The overall atmosphere is calm and unhurried, while the contented buzz of generously spaced diners, punctuated by the rhythmic responses of the well-drilled brigade in the open kitchen creates a pleasing sense of harmony and purpose.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, No background music, Credit card required, Pre-payment required
725 Great Western Road, Glasgow, Strathclyde G12 8QX
0141 334 6265
