Barry Fish

In Scots dialect, ‘barry,’ ‘barrie’ or ′barree’ means fine or good; it's also the first name of chef-owner Barry Bryson, who runs this recent addition to Edinburgh's restaurant scene. Barry Fish is his first permanent solo restaurant, and with olive-green paintwork, a stone facade and fresh, contemporary interiors (parquet floors, apple-green velvet banquettes), it's a bright, modern space.

The menu showcases shellfish and seafood from around Scotland, with a couple of additional dishes for vegetarians and meat-eaters. The 'low tide' menu (aka lunch) has a relaxed vibe, kicking off with the likes of home-smoked haddock kedgeree and organic eggs or a sublimely delicate signature dish of cured sea trout pastrami glazed with treacle and teamed with aïoli, baby capers and dried grapes; we also liked the chunky sourdough focaccia topped with sweet Eyemouth crab, grilled Cheddar and apple bechamel. 

For main course, slow-cooked octopus (chargrilled, pink and tender) also received the thumbs-up, served on a bed of whipped feta with aniseed-tinged persillade. Dessert is a low-key nod to those with a sweet tooth, perhaps Eve's pudding with custard, a chocolate caramel or marmalade ice cream. Run by a small, close-knit team, the restaurant has a relaxed, friendly vibe that extends to four-legged companions. And to drink? There are signature cocktails and a small but thoughtfully curated selection of wines.