A Tavola Gastronomia Siciliana

A family endeavour that customers have taken to their hearts, A Tavola is justifiably well-loved in the 'little Derbyshire town' of New Mills – though, in truth, the team could teach some urban big-hitters a few things about warmth, welcome and cannoli. The former Beehive pub has been drenched in sunshine-yellow and filled with Sicilan geegaws; ring the bell for admittance and surrender to the deep and unusual comfort of a huge regional menu from which it is very difficult to order badly. 

Antipasti include scorching panelle fritters, flaky on the outside with creamy interiors, as well as huge fingers of sfincione (Sicilian pizza) on house-made fluffy, milky-white foccacia. Pasta is homemade too – even tricksy bucatini, supersized and served 'con le sarde' with a richly generous version of the sardine sauce plus wild fennel, saffron and an elegant sufficiency of raisins and pine nuts. 

The rugged High Peak setting is reflected in a pile of small, fantastically tender local lamb chops served with Sicilian spices, light Trapanese pesto and a little skip of mint. Puddings including crisp, ricotta-stuffed 'bigne' choux buns show off solid pastry skills, but there's also homemade gelato and a slush machine whirring with granita in the corner. The drinks list comes from the hand of an enthusiast, with everything from Italian ciders to soft spritzes and natural wines made in terracotta pots, but you'll always know you're in New Mills: the bill comes with a selection of sweets from the neighbouring Swizzels factory.