2210 by NattyCanCook

Nathaniel Mortley, aka Natty, has been on a mission to bring a respectfully elevated version of Caribbean foodways to London in recent times, and here in Herne Hill, the latest results are in plentiful evidence. The restaurant's decor might look a little generic, but the cooking delivers the nourishing, down-to-earth impact of its sun-soaked origins. 'We needed this for our community,' declares one local. Those who have followed Natty since his days at the Greyhound in Peckham appreciate the way his dishes have developed – the jerk chicken with rice and peas is a highlight, while the plantain cake is 'something unique and memorable'. A spring roll filled with saltfish and ackee sets the taste buds rocking, and big appetites will head for the likes of braised oxtail with jollof rice, but everything is beautifully presented and bursting with flavour. When not run off their feet, staff contribute massively to the experience, bringing warmth and joy to the whole scene. Drinking opens with rum punch, or perhaps a Scotch bonnet Margarita, and there's a small but serviceable list of assertive wines.