Best restaurants in King’s Cross
Published 19 January 2024

It seems fitting that the Hart Brothers should choose the fashionable enclave of Coal Drops Yard for the fourth – and biggest – branch of Barrafina, their gently expanding group of tapas bars. Located on the upper tier of the development (above Casa Pastor), it chimes perfectly with the laid-back, metropolitan vibe of its neighbours and ticks all the now-familiar Barrafina boxes: counter seating; plain-speaking tiled interiors; clued-up young staff and a menu of skilfully rendered tapas classics prepared and cooked in an open-to-view kitchen. Para picar nibbles of boquerones, chipirones (baby squid) and mojama (cured tuna) pique the taste buds ahead of various made-to-order tortillas, black rice, chicken thighs with romesco or stuffed courgette flowers. Desserts are limited to ice creams, sorbets and crema catalana. Like its siblings, this branch also parades a chalked-up daily board of specials (notably seafood) that lift the cooking up a notch or two: perhaps oxtail croquetas, confit cod with leeks, hake with roasted peppers or the thin, elongated cut of Ibérico pork known as lagarto. A tight list of Spanish regional wines, cavas and sherries in various styles completes the picture.

‘Cheap, delicious and authentic,’ is one snappy verdict on this constantly rammed, no-bookings Chinese. Queues come with the territory, long waits are inevitable and the whole experience can seem a tad perfunctory, but there’s no disputing the sheer quality of the food. Regulars praise everything from the Shanghai dumplings in soup (‘great depth of flavour’) to the BBQ roast duck, ‘beautifully cooked’ salt-and-pepper squid and a host of peasant-style regional specialities. Also try the 'dazzling' prawn wontons with house-made salad cream (a throwback to old Hong Kong). To drink? Bubble tea, perhaps. Helpings are more than generous, so expect to be well-fed.

The grime and dilapidation surrounding King’s Cross is long gone. Though the canal still snakes through, the old warehouses have been re-purposed with eating, drinking and shopping now the business in hand. A former Victorian transit shed is home to Dishoom, one of an ever-expanding group of livewire Indian eateries inspired by the classless Irani cafés of old Bombay (now Mumbai). If the history is lost on you, the atmospheric decor and sepia photos on the walls will provide context, while the hubbub of the place is sure to get you in the mood.

The place opens early, and if you're not yet acquainted with their bacon naan rolls or Parsi omelettes, you'll be wondering how you managed to get breakfast so wrong all these years. Bookings are only taken for groups of six or more in the evening, so rock up and be lucky (with some 300 covers, it's a capacious spot). The all-day menu has vivid descriptions of each dish – the gunpowder potatoes are smoky-grilled and flavoured with crushed aromatic seeds and green herbs, for example.

Spicing is firm and fair, and everything from small plates (lamb samosas, pau bhaji) to grills (spicy lamb chops, masala prawns etc) and rich, silky curries hits the mark. There's a fabulous Indian spin on the drinks list too, with the likes of India Gimlet and a 1948 Sour on offer. Wines open at £29, and the generous range of beers includes their own house IPA.

If Supawan's food wasn’t so thrilling, the best thing about it would be the welcome. Occupying an unassuming spot on Caledonian Road, just a brief stroll from King's Cross, owner (and executive chef) Wichet Khongphoon has made happiness and good food his raison d’être: his motto – ‘eat well, live well, be happy’ – is fully embraced by the staff. To accommodate a longstanding, loyal following, the colourful, casual dining space expands at night to include the florist's next door (under the same ownership). The menu features a broad roster of regional Thai dishes, from laab to tom yum, but is quintessentially rooted in the cooking of southern Thailand. Alongside plenty of seafood and fiery salads (vibrant green mango with dried shrimps, cashews and peanuts, say), there are street-food classics such as stir-fried morning glory with chillies and garlic or slow-cooked pork belly, a speciality from Phuket, where the chef grew up; we also recommend ordering his ‘dad’s beef curry’ with roasted coconut and pea aubergine. Other powerfully aromatic curries won’t disappoint heat-seekers, and there’s plenty for vegans – the silky, umami-laden laab aubergine is a highlight. Temper the heat with a serving of ice cream (black sesame or coconut) to round things off. The kitsch cocktail list is a giggle and there’s a short list of spice-friendly wines.