Dishoom King’s Cross

King's Cross, London

Rating: Good

Indian | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

The grime and dilapidation surrounding King’s Cross is long gone. Though the the canal still snakes through, the old warehouses have been re-purposed with eating, drinking and shopping now the business in hand. A former Victorian transit shed is home to Dishoom, one of an ever-expanding group of livewire Indian eateries inspired by the classless Irani cafés of old Bombay (now Mumbai). If the history is lost on you, the atmospheric decor and sepia photos on the walls will provide context, while the hubbub of the place is sure to get you in the mood. The place opens early, and if you're not yet acquainted with their bacon naan rolls or Parsi omelettes, you'll be wondering how you managed to get breakfast so wrong all these years. Bookings are only taken for groups of six or more in the evening, so rock up and be lucky (with some 300 covers, it's a capacious spot). The all-day menu has vivid descriptions of each dish – the gunpowder potatoes are smoky-grilled and flavoured with crushed aromatic seeds and green herbs, for example. Spicing is firm and fair, and everything from small plates (lamb samosas, pau bhaji) to grills (spicy lamb chops, masala prawns etc) and rich, silky curries hits the mark. There's a fabulous Indian spin on the drinks list too, with the likes of India Gimlet and a 1948 Sour on offer. Wines open at £29, and the generous range of beers includes their own house IPA.

Rating: Good

Indian | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Separate bar, Wheelchair access

5 Stable Street, King's Cross N1C 4AB

020 7420 9321