From the humble high street pan loaf to the wild rise of a proper British sourdough, Jeremy Lee, chef-proprietor of Soho institution Quo Vadis, charts the nation’s return to form when it comes to baking and breaking bread.
It’s British Pie Week (4-10 March) so we’ve picked some of the best examples from this year’s GFG
What better way to begin a trip to the continent than with a good meal en route? As a pioneering foot passenger of Brittany Ferries in the '70s Ali Jarvis charts the course of a crossing founded on produce and cultural pride.
The writer Debora Robertson moved to the French port of Marseillan in September 2021, having gone on holiday there for a decade. When a house she had long admired came up for sale, that was that, and Debora and her husband Séan moved to Marseillan permanently, leaving their frantic lives in London behind. Here, she picks out her favourite spots for shellfish, charcuterie and a glass or two of Noilly Prat.
Back in the late noughties, Arbutus was the talk of the town – an uncompromising star performer famed for its rigorous seasonal sourcing, butch ingredients and pioneering attitude to wine. Anthony Demetre kept prices low (notably the fabulous value prix fixe) by majoring in provincial French classics such as bouillabaisse and pieds et paquets (trotters and tripe) and by making extraordinary use of regular ingredients such as lamb breast. After ten successful years the restaurant closed in 2016 due to an increase in the rent.
