GFG archives

Through the archives: Arbutus
Published 06 July 2022

Credit: @wildhoneystjames

Back in the late noughties, Arbutus was the talk of the town – an uncompromising star performer famed for its rigorous seasonal sourcing, butch ingredients and pioneering attitude to wine. Anthony Demetre kept prices low (notably the fabulous value prix fixe) by majoring in provincial French classics such as bouillabaisse and pieds et paquets (trotters and tripe) and by making extraordinary use of regular ingredients such as lamb breast. After ten successful years the restaurant closed in 2016 due to an increase in the rent.

The Good Food Guide 2007 Anthony Demetre and Will Smith's new Soho venture opened in the early summer of 2006 and was immediately the talk of the town. Named after the arbutus (strawberry tree) that used to stand in nearby Soho Square, it's in the premises that once housed ...

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