Y Polyn

I'm fortunate to live, at least some of the time, within easy reach of Y Polyn but if I didn't it would have to be a destination in its own right. Operated for more than 20 years by the magnificent Mansons, Mark ebulliently managing the front of house while Susan masterminds the kitchen, this cosy, chilled country restaurant is deadly serious about showcasing brilliant Welsh produce, letting them shine in a deft and deceptively simple way. You don't just tuck into the food with relish, it intrigues you. Menu fixtures like a top-notch fish soup with rouille, and sumptuous belly pork that lives up to the mantra 'fat is flavour, get used to it!' are always tempting, but so were a pigeon breast starter, turbo-charged by a magical combination of kimchi and salsa verde and another of crab and chilli tagliatelle, garnished with peas, and soft, sweet and spicy in equal measure. Lamb hereabouts may be legendary but it doesn't always get the precise cooking delivered here. Pembrokeshire chicken breast is packed with flavour to match its wild mushroom pithivier guard of honour. Desserts invariably present a tough choice and never disappoint, especially when white chocolate is involved. A small but eclectic wine list, all available by the glass, has its finger firmly on the contemporary pulse with food-friendly Assyrtiko and Marselan alongside well-chosen expressions of the more familiar varieties. Just when you feel exceptionally well done by, delicious chocolate petits fours arrive with your valedictory espresso. We are blessed in Carmarthenshire.