Y Polyn
Nantgaredig, Carmarthenshire
Entry
'We're not trying to be cutting edge or postmodern here,' declares the website of this long-running converted tollhouse, now a cosy family-run restaurant, in the Towy Valley of west Wales. There are no tablecloths or carpets either, but there is heartening, regionally sourced Welsh cooking of genuine distinction. The homey ambience and friendly staff who won't try to commandeer your wine bottle are why Y Polyn (The Pole) is so well supported by its regulars. Menus that change every day keep things fresh and seasonal, and while many of the dishes are indeed familiar, that doesn't preclude a gentle streak of invention. Crisply roasted pork belly with a stew of cannellini beans and chorizo, served with chimichurri, mobilises a bunch of satisfying flavours and textures, while fillet of cod might be dressed in a vinaigrette of shallots, capers and raisins, alongside roast cauliflower and spinach. To kick things off, there is often an accomplished pasta dish, perhaps crab tagliatelle spiked with garlic, ginger and chilli, all gratinated under buttery breadcrumbs. At the sweet end, an unabashed determination to seduce is given free rein, by way of dark chocolate tart with crème fraîche or sticky toffee pudding replete with dates and walnuts. A usefully annotated wine list keeps its prices in check.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly
Capel Dewi, Nantgaredig, Carmarthenshire SA32 7LH
01267 290000
