Tom Brown at The Capital

Tucked discreetly behind Harrods, the Capital has always felt like a gem that not everybody has discovered – although its small scale and relative intimacy make it particularly appealing. Over the years, the hotel has cultivated a succession of talented chefs, and the arrival of Tom Brown is a homecoming of sorts – not only a return to the kitchen where he made his name as Nathan Outlaw’s head chef, but also a return to form for the restaurant itself. The day-to-day running of the kitchen is down to sous-chef Erik Miotto, who proves himself adept at translating Brown’s contemporary approach to fish cookery, sending out dishes that pulse with seasonality and flavour. The twice-weekly set lunch is the best way to dip your toes into the place but eat from the carte and you’ll find some handsome snacks, a brilliant riff on Brown’s signature mackerel tartare (actually sea bream when we visited), and silky sauces playing off against ingredients of outstanding quality. And, of course, there’s a wine to match, with a surprisingly good choice under £55 (given the location).