Three Darlings

Tucked away discreetly in an appealing pedestrianised street crowded with European café-culture spots, Jason Atherton’s Three Darlings is a welcome oasis. From the partially concealed entrance, steps lead down to a striking, sunken Mediterranean-inspired 30-cover terrace and airy, pastel-hued dining room, the result of a recent overhaul of the brasserie’s look and concept. From openers of plump langoustine with garlic butter, and a delicate tangle of Provençal blood peach, plum and beetroot with Muscat grape dressing to the full-on flavours of Josper-grilled Belted Galloway côte de boeuf, there’s a real taste of the Med about the food. The strong culinary connection with another Atherton opening, Marias at Forte dei Marmi in northern Tuscany, has given Three Darlings a new impetus, with the invigorated kitchen belting out a regularly changing line-up – the crab rice with brown butter, in particular, is an undisputed star. Above all, it’s appreciated for being open all week (including breakfast) and for making fine dining accessible and neighbourly.  As for drinks, the well-curated wine selection does an agile job of satisfying the novelty-hungry as well as traditionalists.