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The Water House Project

London, Bethnal Green - Modern British - Restaurant - ££££

Fine dining reimagined as a sociable, communal experience

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Exceptional

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Are you looking to sample great cooking combined with the sociability of a supper club? Then, make a beeline for Gabriel Waterhouse's classy restaurant tucked down a graffiti-strewn side street in Bethnal Green. Waterhouse honed his craft at Galvin La Chapelle in the City but has reimagined the notion of fine dining, moving from stiff formality to what might be called a ‘chill experience’.    Arrive at 1pm for lunch or 7pm for dinner, and remember that it pays to be sociable – you may end up sharing a communal table in the modern high-ceilinged room with its huge windows, wooden furniture, concrete walls, exposed ventilation and 'borderless' kitchen. The vibe is totally relaxed, with well-informed staff consciously cultivating a sense of fun and informality.    An umami-rich celeriac and kohlrabi broth infused with koji oil, accompanied by a chestnut and cep parfait sandwiched between wafers of rye bread opened our 11-course 'discovery' menu, e...

Are you looking to sample great cooking combined with the sociability of a supper club? Then, make a beeline for Gabriel Waterhouse's classy restaurant tucked down a graffiti-strewn side street in Bethnal Green. Waterhouse honed his craft at Galvin La Chapelle in the City but has reimagined the notion of fine dining, moving from stiff formality to what might be called a ‘chill experience’. 

 

Arrive at 1pm for lunch or 7pm for dinner, and remember that it pays to be sociable – you may end up sharing a communal table in the modern high-ceilinged room with its huge windows, wooden furniture, concrete walls, exposed ventilation and 'borderless' kitchen. The vibe is totally relaxed, with well-informed staff consciously cultivating a sense of fun and informality. 

 

An umami-rich celeriac and kohlrabi broth infused with koji oil, accompanied by a chestnut and cep parfait sandwiched between wafers of rye bread opened our 11-course 'discovery' menu, emphasising the fact that a lot of forethought and work has gone into each dish. The same care and attention was applied to a serving of cured lobster claw and tail with carrot escabèche, finished off with Madeira and spices for extra warmth. Elsewhere, the textures and garlicky flavour of allium and Roscoff onion worked well with a soft sunflower and miso paste, three-cornered leeks and toasted nigella seeds, 

 

We also recommend opting for the well-curated drinks pairings: the crispy notes of a glass of white Rioja (Solar de Randez 2023) perfectly complemented a dish of oysters topped with green-chilli yoghurt, pickled cucumber and a cold apple, cucumber and sorrel granita. Or how about the fruity notes of a 1909 Wilding Cider (from the 2022 vintage) to accompany a roasted Orkney scallop with a koji emulsion and celeriac braised in seaweed stock, all perked up with a drop of lovage oil? To close the show, freshly baked canelé with a dollop of orange marmalade and a dash of peaty Laphroaig whisky was a terrific way to end. 

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VENUE DETAILS

1 Corbridge Crescent
Bethnal Green
E2 9DTGB

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Credit card required, Deposit required

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