The Suffolk

*Chef Tom Payne has been replaced by Luke Truelove (a former Tom Kerridge alumnus).*

'In short, we love the place, and we love the people,' – a note from one happy guest captures the vibe at this appealing restaurant with rooms on Aldeburgh’s High Street, and others echo the sentiment. The ‘place’ in question is a handsome former coaching inn, transformed with a touch of class by owner George Pell who fell hook, line and sinker for the building and its surroundings during COVID. The ‘people’ include head chef Tom Payne, whose restrained touch with fine ingredients makes for delicious, uncomplicated eating. And how refreshing to be offered a straightforward carte with a couple of specials, something to share and some classic desserts rather than the prevailing 'taster' format.

Seafood beckons. Oysters from nearby Butley Creek require nothing more than shallot vinaigrette to spark the appetite, while scallops spend just enough time in the pan to get a good sear before bouncing onto a bed of buttered samphire – just add a spritz of lemon and a shard of salty bacon for a generous starter. A whopping brill (catch of the day) becomes a feast to share, seared on the Bertha charcoal oven and portioned tableside, while halibut en croûte is an elegant masterclass of fish and pastry cookery, the puddle of beurre blanc sauce zippy with dill and chives. Meat-eaters could be tempted by ultra-classic pork schnitzel Holstein (topped with an egg and anchovies) or a côte de boeuf to share (from Salter & King, the excellent butcher just over the road). Chips are a hot, salty, crisp must-order.

This kitchen takes no short-cuts with ingredients, and there’s no unnecessary faff on the plate. Nor is it a kitchen that sets out to challenge, because who needs that over lunch? A lemon tart couldn’t have been zestier, or you could try sharing an impressive tiramisu millefeuille. The compact wine list delivers familiar names and several by the glass (around £8), tempting at the top end with the likes of Bordeaux’s Left Bank winner, Château Palmer ‘Alter Ego’ 2009.