The Spärrows
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Best Local Restaurant: North West
We love an umlaut. It signifies cosmopolitan style, but at the Spärrows the rationale for the double dot is perfectly genuine, if a touch convoluted. Franco Concli is from Trentino where spätzle is a pasta staple. The Swabian-German word means little sparrows, hence the genesis of the restaurant’s name. Italy meets Austria here with silky spätzle and gnocchi plus a choice of sauces. The star turn is the former with Swiss cheese and braised onions. Another key ingredient from both Trentino and Alto Adige is speck, a cured and smoked ham, here combined with cabbage to make a vibrant filling for a daily special of delicate pasta purses. The European dumpling canon extends further north and the short menu includes Russian pelmeni (with a beef and pork filling topped with crunchy garlic breadcrumbs and a suitably mouth-puckering beetroot and horseradish sauce) and Polish pierogi (with cottage cheese, potato and sour cream). Cold-weather food perhaps, but also – as made here – light enough to suit other seasons. Tyrolese goulash and smoked sausage with sauerkraut are also on the menu. Desserts continue the bi-national theme: tiramisu and apple pierogi with plum-juice foam, for example, while syrupy cinnamon, brown sugar and butter spätzle fill any gaps for those already missing the savoury version. Housed in a former railway arch, the restaurant entrance has a speakeasy vibe: a black door in a brick wall. Inside, it’s a Narnia-like moment of light and bustle with the promise of good things to come. Natural wood, white walls and subtle table lighting give a Nordic feel, while service is informative and friendly, crisply professional but unpretentious. The wine list features Eastern and Central European labels alongside northern Italian ones such as a floral and spicy Gewürtztaminer from the Alto Adige. There are also schnapps, grappa and plum brandies as well as German, Swiss and Mancunian beers on tap. A surprising selection of top-class sakes reflects co-owner Kasia Hitchcock’s other job as a sake supplier.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Deposit required
16 Red Bank, Green Quarter, Manchester, Greater Manchester M4 4HF
0161 302 6267
