The Spärrows

If it seems a stretch from the rarefied peaks of central Europe to Manchester's Green Quarter, be assured that the spätzle, dumplings and filled pasta parcels served at this ‘unique Mancunian concept’ have survived the journey intact. Not the least reason the Spärrows has been such a firm local favourite is that there is so much going on here, from winemakers' lunches to sake tastings. It's in those perfectly rendered little parcels of happiness, though, that the culinary energy is focused. Spätzle or gnocchi come with a range of sauce options, before the menu heads east for pierogi and pelmeni, with lashings of sour cream and garlic breadcrumbs to complement their richly meaty fillings. Sharing boards of cured meats, smoked fish or cheeses will hone the fastest-finger-first skills of a hungry bunch, and if a winter warmer is required, look to the Tyrolese goulash with knöpfle and pickles. To finish, the banker has to be the cinnamon spätzle in a cloud of brown sugar. Revelatory Alpine wines are on hand to suit the mood.