The Smithfield

Opening in one of the city’s most hallowed restaurant sites was always going to invite comparison. In its day, the Reliance was a much-loved neighbourhood haunt that became the gateway drug for a generation of Leeds foodies, and a return to its burgundy paint job was a statement of intent from its new owners. Head chef James Donovan's CV includes Clerkenwell's Rochelle Canteen, and you don't have to do much dusting to see the Fergus and Margot Henderson's nose-to-tail fingerprints: pig's head, ox heart, hogget, and a meritocratic approach to the menu with produce leading the way – occasionally nudged along by a well-timed dollop of gribiche or a slick of bisque. Much of the food comes with a lick of flame from the grill, adding a pleasing bitterness to the leeks on romesco and fennel served alongside perfectly pan-fried coley. Thick-crusted pies come filled with herb-fed chicken in tarragon gravy and are accompanied by 'biblically accurate' chips. Given that the Reliance's owners have moved on to running their business, Wayward Wines, it's not surprising that the bottle list is drawn from their selection, while the beer taps out front feature ales from new owners Crooked Brewing, a microbrewery based at Leeds East Airport.