The Seahorse

‘There is some magical alchemy at work in this little corner of Dartmouth,’ notes one reporter, adding that the family-owned Seahorse delivers ‘seafood at its absolute best’. On the Dartmouth quayside, the restaurant is helmed by Mitch Tonks’ son Ben, who is maintaining its high standards and commitment to daily deliveries of locally sourced produce (especially fish). The Seahorse has always radiated a balmy sense of Mediterranean good cheer, and the cooking follows suit. Charcoal-roasted Torbay scallops with white port are never off the menu, and sunny flavours permeate the repertoire from fritto misto di mare to whole John Dory with Sicilian tomatoes and Leccino olives. There are lamb cutlets ‘alla milanese’ and chargrilled calf’s liver with polenta if you’re not in the maritime mood, while desserts maintain the theme of elegant simplicity – perhaps poached fruit with mascarpone and grappa. The fixed-price lunchtime ‘menu del giorno’ offers excellent value, while Ben Tonks’ monthly ‘open table’ gatherings in the private dining room (aka the Cantina) are a local hit. An excellent Eurocentric wine list does justice to the food.