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The Pass

West Sussex, Lower Beeding - Modern British - Restaurant - ££££

A tasting menu tour de force inspired by the local larder

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Ben Wilkinson and his partner Monika Zurawska (who runs front-of-house with warmth and generosity) moved to South Lodge from the well-regarded Cottage in the Wood in the Lake District. Conceptually, a garlanded chef serving a tasting menu in a 5-star hotel makes sense, and The Pass – a tasting menu-only affair – conjured up a tour de force, a seven-stage succession of hits that coaxed colour and vivacity from Sussex’s winter larder on our February visit. Wilkinson isn’t trying to rewrite the rulebook but is not slavish to it either: a classical oeuvre is at the heart of his approach, though the execution is fully contemporary. Complex without being complicated, the tasting menu segues from snacks (perhaps a Comté gougère or eel croustades glazed with apple syrup atop an apple, turnip and potato salad) to a sea-earth-sea-earth sequence of painterly dishes. Seared loin of wild South Downs fallow deer with a deer-liver dumpling, artichoke, red w...

Ben Wilkinson and his partner Monika Zurawska (who runs front-of-house with warmth and generosity) moved to South Lodge from the well-regarded Cottage in the Wood in the Lake District. Conceptually, a garlanded chef serving a tasting menu in a 5-star hotel makes sense, and The Pass – a tasting menu-only affair – conjured up a tour de force, a seven-stage succession of hits that coaxed colour and vivacity from Sussex’s winter larder on our February visit.

Wilkinson isn’t trying to rewrite the rulebook but is not slavish to it either: a classical oeuvre is at the heart of his approach, though the execution is fully contemporary. Complex without being complicated, the tasting menu segues from snacks (perhaps a Comté gougère or eel croustades glazed with apple syrup atop an apple, turnip and potato salad) to a sea-earth-sea-earth sequence of painterly dishes. Seared loin of wild South Downs fallow deer with a deer-liver dumpling, artichoke, red wine, radicchio, chestnut mushrooms and hazelnuts coalesces the prime cut with its funkier, musky counterpart to outstanding effect, while a serving of beef fillet and braised cheek paired with truffle and hen of the woods creates a beguiling tapestry of earthy textures. Next, something more ethereal – perhaps a delicate tranche of perfectly opaque day-boat turbot surrounded by a classic Champagne sauce made with English sparkling wine, leeks and coastal herbs. 

The cooking is sustained by a sense of culinary equilibrium: when one season segues into another, the menu switches up, with Sussex producers and suppliers heralded throughout. The first of our two winter desserts was a light and pretty confection (sharp rhubarb with a fragrant rose syrup and a chilled quenelle of fromage blanc), while a rich, luxuriant chocolate délice concluded proceedings. Three wine-pairing options start north of £90, and the list is a prestige and spendy global selection, albeit thoughtfully selected. Alternatively, you might opt for a by-the-glass Macedonian Assyrtiko, which has a perky salinity and lingering finish that makes it a fine pairing for the food. 

We felt that the hotel dining room wasn't doing Wilkinson’s cooking full justice. The chef's exquisite food deserves a lovelier backdrop than cool white spotlights, lilac furnishings, fake plants and an airport-lounge vibe.  However, the 92 acres of landscaped grounds surrounding the hotel and spa feel more in tune with his culinary artistry.

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VENUE DETAILS

South Lodge Hotel, Brighton Road
Lower Beeding
West Sussex
RH13 6PSGB

01403 891711

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Deposit required

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