The Packhorse Inn

Pristine inside and out, this bullishly revitalised village inn overlooking Moulton’s handsome green has year-round appeal as a weekending and dining destination but, with real ales and a proper bar it's popular with drinkers too. The more luxe element of the package is confined to the letting rooms (and the cars in the car park on our visit), while the light-filled, raftered restaurant speaks of a charmingly relaxed dining room, complete with warm, attentive service. There’s also a garden terrace for summertime dining.

The cooking is similarly straightforward with the kitchen matching pub classics – Scotch egg with brown sauce, burgers, steak and chips – with seasonally fresh dishes with an international focus, say crispy Blackface lamb shoulder with English peas and broad beans, mint and labneh or a roasted courgette risotto with pesto, sunflower seed and basil.

On a glowing late spring evening, BBQ poussin with paprika, tabouleh, yoghurt and sumac, and cod served with a tangle of mussels, buttered potatoes and greens in a lemon and champagne cream sauce both proved palpable hits, as did the elderflower pannacotta with Essex strawberries which we shared for dessert. The wines list is wide ranging, listed by style, and offers a good selection by the glass.