The Martlet Kitchen

Concealed within the Victorian Gothic grandeur of Rochdale Town Hall, the Martlet Kitchen (named after a mythical local bird with no feet) is a fine riposte to decades of negative public image. Any doubts about operating in a civic setting, however, are swept away by the quality of the food. Nothing is too outrageous, fussy or experimental – in fact there's a reassuring, sturdy simplicity about what is on offer, and the well-priced menus (including breakfast, brunch, afternoon tea and kids' meals) display pride in local produce and tradition: crispy lamb breast with Rochdale black peas, for example. Dishes such as onion and coriander bhajis or rigatoni with meatballs reflect the areas cultural diversity, while homemade pies (including cheese and onion) sell out quickly. And you can't go wrong with ale-battered haddock or even a hot roast beef sandwich with onions and gravy. Sunday lunch is equally traditional – roast sirloin of Cheshire beef or garlicky, minty leg of Dales lamb with all the trimmings. The drinks list also caters to all palates and preferences at fair prices. Bravo to the local council, we say.