The Martlet Kitchen

Concealed within the magnificent Victorian Gothic grandeur of Rochdale Town Hall (the ornate stylings and stunning stained glass windows are said to rival the Palace of Westminster), the Martlet Kitchen (named after a mythical local bird with no feet) is a fine riposte to decades of negative public image. Any doubts about operating in a civic setting, however, are swept away by the quality of the food, overseen by locally raised chef Darren Parkinson. 

Nothing is too outrageous, fussy or experimental. In fact, there's a reassuring, sturdy simplicity to his dishes – even upscale Friday and Saturday night offerings such as beef Wellington with truffled Madeira sauce. Overall, his well-priced menus (including breakfast, brunch, afternoon tea, Sunday roasts and kids' meals) display pride in local produce and tradition: dock pudding alongside butternut squash soup, for example, or a Bury black pudding Scotch egg with black peas.

Lancashire's cultural diversity is also evident in dishes such as a 'Bombay breakfast' and North Sea halibut with Marsala-spiced pumpkin, while homemade pies (including cheese and onion) sell out quickly. And you can't go wrong with a crisp, generous piece of ale-battered haddock with ‘Manchester caviar’ (aka mushy peas) and textbook triple-cooked chips. Elsewhere, an Old Spot pork chop is ample, rich and juicy with a thick rim of luscious fat and lip-licking crackling, while desserts include a fine rendition of sticky toffee pudding. 

The drinks list also caters to all palates and preferences, ranging from hot chocolate to cocktails, Lancashire-brewed ales and easy-drinking wines at fair prices. Bravo to the local council, who have avoided the easy option of ‘municipal catering’ and have created a proper Rochdale enterprise. The ambition is in their DNA.